Patrik Ervell 2010 Spring Collection

In a look at Patrik Ervell’s 2010 spring collection, the talented designer brought forth some

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In a look at Patrik Ervell’s 2010 spring collection, the talented designer brought forth some innovative fabrics as the centerpiece of his collection. The use of an oxidized aesthetic was immediately recognizable however the collection did also include some more toned-down offerings. As always, Ervell’s outerwear was a strong point with off-centered buttons on jackets and concentric circle designs.

Patrik Ervell is New York menswear’s equivalent of a cult indie band. Everything—the styling, the soundtrack, the attitude, and, of course, the clothes themselves—conspires to create the impression of a focused, intense, maybe even tortured artist. Like any cult indie band, Ervell can release a dud product. But when he flies, he soars. Spring saw a major return to the form that won him his fashion indie-boy fan base. The reference points he quoted were iron and copper oxides, fabrics washed to fade—and the state of California. That’s where Ervell grew up, but the smart shabbiness of the clothes also made me think of the post-boho artists who created a scene around the Ferus Gallery in L.A. in the early sixties. And, continuing on the art tip, the colors and patterns imprinted on the fabrics by oxidizing metals echoed work by Andy Warhol and Robert Smithson.

But that’s just me. The idea Ervell wanted to convey was another facet of the Americanness he has always explored in his work—rusting buildings, railways, traces left by pioneers who’ve come before. It was a spectacularly visual effect. From a distance, oxidized jackets looked almost like crushed velvet. One showpiece had the metal woven into the cloth, which created a shimmering patina of age. Washing had a similar effect on chambray shirts and jackets, making them seem like they’d been faded in the California desert, where the Clarks Wallabees worn by the models would be appropriate footwear. Ervell studded a couple pairs with rusty staples, so they too had an oxidized look. Backstage, he insisted that the shoes had been equipped with a protective lining—even for an indie artist, model lockjaw might’ve been a step too far.

- Tim Blanks

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Source: Men.Style.com

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