Kiko Kostadinov’s cultish eponymous label isn’t defined by a particular aesthetic but perhaps an amalgam of elements tied to the designer’s constantly shifting inspirations. Deconstruction is at the heart of the brand but revolving themes tied to sportswear, futurism, aristocracy and dystopia push the boundaries of the house’s seasonal collection.

Kostadinov is a disciplined innovator and experimentation was big for the Bulgarian-born creative in 2020. Both his FW20 and SS21 presentations this year were stark examples of his evolving philosophies on the masculine uniform. FW20 was restrained and semi-futuristic — tailoring possessed abstract cutouts, knits and tops had purposeful paneling and layering was loose. For SS21, Kostadinov recalled the romance and class from past aristocratic cultures but the collection as a whole could’ve been set in the future too. Billowy tops, shiny fabrics, ruffled details and pronounced stripes signaled the designer’s newfound flair for the dramatic.

In 2020, Kostadinov continued his partnership with athletic wear brand ASICS. There were plenty of releases this time around and each footwear drop was more detailed and abstract; there was the women’s GEL-Aurania that featured snakelike lacing, the GESSIRITT II which had alien-like spherical holes, a pair of trek-inspired UB1-S Gel-Kayano 14s, a chunky-soled GEL-GLIDELYTE III and the laceless GEL-Kiril 2. A collaborative ASICS apparel was released as well and the designs echoed Kostadinov’s futuristic and deconstructed elements. In November, Kostadinov dropped an outerwear collaboration with famed British brand C.P. Company. Called the Sinesis jacket, the piece featured concise construction and utilitarian elements — action pleats at the shoulders, velcro-closure cuffs, removable neck gaiter and hidden pockets.