The first-ever retrospective dedicated to NIGO outside of Japan has opened in the UK at London’s Design Museum.

Comprising hundreds of objects from his own personal archives, along with select loans from the likes of Kenzo and Louis Vuitton, the “NIGO: From Japan With Love” show is a treasure trove of rare items, many of which haven’t been displayed before.

Together, they provide an insight into NIGO’s career to date, with the show beginning with a replica of his teenage bedroom, and ending with a ceramics-filled tea house that pays homage to the place in his life he currently finds himself at.

“We knew that NIGO had a massive collection of fashion and clothing, but it was only when we got to his studio in Tokyo that we realised he had so much more than that,” curator Esme Hawes told Hypebeast.

“[To select them], we worked really closely with him, because a lot of the stories that we tell in the exhibition haven’t ever been written down, they’re just sort of verbal stories that Nigo knows himself.”

Ahead of the show’s opening, curator Esme Hawes and NIGO selected 15 objects that you can’t miss.

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507XX Jacket, Levi’s

“This is the first Levi’s item that NIGO ever bought when he was a teenager. This is Levi’s second model, from 1986. It was the first vintage garment he owned and he wore it all the time. It’s a very loved piece, shredded with patches and falling apart. For me this piece highlights NIGO’s love for clothing, and vintage clothing in particular, but also his passion for collecting too.”

Whizit dungarees, Lee, 1927

“One of of NIGO’s favourite and rarest pieces in his vintage clothing collection, these popular workwear overalls were the first to use a zipper rather than hook fasteners. Lee held a contest to name the dungarees. The winning name, ‘Whizit’ – a reference to the sound of their new zipper – stuck. They gained widespread popularity through celebrity endorsements and publicity stunts, including the 1927 National Corn Huskers Contest, where eight of the ten winners wore a pair.”

Work caps

“NIGO is fascinated by the practical garments that shaped America’s industrial past. Their functional designs and innovative use of material make these pieces a key reference for his HUMAN MADE label. These work caps were made between the 1930s to the 1960s – including a rare original 1930s Carhartt cap – and are recognisable as part of NIGO’s everyday personal style.”

First ever NOWHERE shopping bag

“On 1 April 1993, NIGO and Jun Takahashi (who he met during his time at Bunka Fashion College) opened NOWHERE. Divided by a mesh fence, the shop initially sold Takahashi’s fashion label, UnderCover, on one side and a favourite American sportswear selection of NIGO’s brands on the other. The name references The Beatles’ ‘Nowhere Man’ but also offers a pun on ‘NOW HERE’. Following a DIY spirit, logos were hand stamped onto boxes and bags, like this one.”

NOWHERE store signboard, 1993

“This sign comes from the original NOWHERE store which was located in Harajuku. Nowhere is a really important moment because it’s the place where Nigo launches A Bathing Ape, which is probably the brand that he’s most well known for.”

NOWHERE 3rd anniversary gift box, 1996

“NOWHERE released commemorative merch boxes for its anniversaries, suggesting its founders’ early awareness of the shop’s cultural impact. They contained not only commemorative books but also T-shirts, flyers, toys and stickers. This 3rd anniversary box with its creative packaging, preview the playful humour that would become NIGO’s trademark.”

‘A-Bomb T-shirt’, BAPE 1993

“A Bathing Ape’s debut collection comprised selection of jackets– only of a small T-shirts and shell- so small, in fact, that five of each item was ordered from the manufacturer and available in store. This is one of the first BAPE T-shirts, it is known by collectors as the ‘A-Bomb T- shirt’, 1993. It features a graphic by Sk8thing and a ‘Boombox tag’, seen only on the earliest designs.”

BAPE early era nylon jacket

“BAPE was very DIY in the beginning, and sometimes there were only five things made,” said assistant curator Rosa Abbott. “That’s partly due to kind of limitations on how much NIGO was able to produce himself, but also, it kind of becomes quite desirable when things are so limited run,” says assistant curator Rosa Abbott.

“This was the very first item that was published in The Face magazine. US graffiti artist Futura was wearing this jacket, that he bought in London, when I first met him in Tokyo,” says NIGO.

Ape Map of Harajuku, 1996

“The mid-1990s saw A Bathing Ape expand, opening new stores in Tokyo including ‘secret’ shops, which were discreetly illustrated on this ‘Ape map’. The subtly illustrated secret shop was called ‘Concept’ and specific items were only available for purchase there.”

BAPE Camo shirt

“The very first BAPE Camo item. NIGO wanted his brand to have its own distinctive pattern– like Louis Vuitton’s monogram. Camo was the answer. Titled ‘1st Camo’ was created in 1996, as the first of many original camouflage patterns. This print featured a reimagined cloud camo pattern in an olive colourway with a distorted ape head– an adaptation of the US Marine ‘Duck Hunter’ patterns. In various iterations, the print has covered everything from trainers, toilet paper and stationery to mid-century furniture and vintage cars.

Hip-hop icon Biggie Smalls, also known as The Notorious B.I.G, catapulted the BAPE camo print to global fame. Custom XXL pieces were created for the rapper, but unfortunately they did not reach him before his untimely death in 1997.”

BAPE early era Sweatshirts

“Some of the earliest BAPE designs, printed on Camber sweatshirts and featuring the ‘Boombox’ tag. If you see the boombox tag, it’s very, very early BAPE product. There’s only a few designs that have that tag on it”

BAPE Pepsi cans

“In 2001 NIGO approached Pepsi to collaborate on limited-edition BAPE merchandise. This collaboration paved the way for future high-profile fashion- corporate partnerships. NIGO’s vision was to release Pepsi cans plastered with his iconic camo pattern, bringing BAPE to a wider consumer base. These cans retailed for less than a dollar, making them the most affordable BAPE item at the time. They became instant collector’s items and have since become highly sought after by a community of hardcore BAPE fans.”

HUMAN MADE ‘Yokosuka Jumper’ souvenir jacket

“One of the first pieces NIGO designed for HUMAN MADE, this jacket takes inspiration from his collection of vintage sukajan jackets. He kept the flight jacket-inspired silhouette, but gave the classic animal motifs a futuristic refashioning, with bears stylised as rocket ships. The embroidery applied over printed designs creates more depth and texture.”

Varsity jacket, Nike × NIGO, 2024

“In 2024, NIGO was invited by Nike to design a series of exclusive Air Force III sneakers and clothing collections. This particular piece was a friends and family limited-edition colorway, and therefore wasn’t for general sale.”

Varsity jacket, Nike × NIGO, 2024

“In 2025, NIGO brought Levi’s on board for a collaboration with Nike, creating a denim version of their classic Air Force III low trainers. Featured in the advertising campaign was this life-size cut out of NIGO as a denim-clad cowboy, inspired by the piece of Levis wooden advertising from the 1940-50s he previously collected.”

“NIGO: From Japan With Love” is on view at London’s Design Museum from May 1 to October 4 2026.