Paul Smith’s FW26 Menswear Collection is a Masterclass in “Modern Sartorialism”
From 1970s sketches to 1980s Western shirts, the brand’s latest runway is a vibrant celebration of “real clothes” with a historic soul.
Summary
- Paul Smith’s FW26 Men’s Collection, shown in Milan, explored modern sartorialism through a deep dive into his 55‑year archive
- Key revivals included the inside‑out suit, 1989 Western shirt and Colin Barnes‑illustrated pieces
Paul Smith’s Fall/Winter 2026 menswear collection, unveiled at Milan Fashion Week, serves as a masterclass in “modern sartorialism” through a deliberate excavation of the brand’s 55-year history.
This season, Sir Paul Smith collaborated with newly appointed head of men’s design, Sam Cotton, to perform a “deep dive” into the company’s vast Nottingham archive of over 5,000 garments. The resulting lineup is an energetic re-engineering of the brand’s DNA, incorporating re-fashioned ideas drawn from 14 distinct archive collections. The theme centers on the deconstruction of the suit, celebrating the internal craftsmanship and quirky British heritage that have defined the independent house since its inception.
The collection highlights several key archival revivals, most notably the return of the “inside-out” suit – a concept Smith pioneered in 1999 – reimagined here with yellow topstitching that delineates the garment’s interior construction. Another standout piece is a white Western shirt with unique angular pocket flaps, updated from a 1989 design.
Artistic storytelling also took center stage with shirts featuring sketches by Colin Barnes, a nod to a 1978 show where Smith utilized the artist’s drawings in lieu of runway photography. The tailoring remained sophisticated yet relaxed, featuring languid double-breasted jackets with low waistlines and pleated trousers, often paired with bib shirts for a look that balances formality with contemporary ease.
Texture and pattern played a vital role in grounding the collection’s nostalgic yet fresh feel. Traditional Harris Tweed overcoats were engineered for a smooth finish, while tailored hunting jackets in dark Donegal tweed introduced functional details like map pockets at the hip.
Knitwear offered a playful disruption, with archive Fair Isle designs reimagined in soft wool alpaca and styled as oversized scarves. Accessories followed suit, featuring 1980s-inspired tie patterns and handsome suede satchel-totes revived from the same decade.
