Following last year’s ragged collection, Japanese label sulvam returns for Spring/Summer 2019 with an array of aggressively deconstructed tailoring. Described by designer Teppei Fujita as “[seeking] freedom and genderlessness,” the new line is a blend of unique styling and retro influences.
Offering a host of bespoke textiles, the collection centered around slouchy suiting and draping knitwear. Oversized cardigans and sweaters pervaded the range, showcasing lurid diamond patterns and rich mohair, with tattered, sliced-off hems contrasting against the easygoing cuts. Raw hems appeared throughout the range, with threads dangling from the pockets and lining of track-inspired jackets, lace shirting and silk tank tops. Studs and embroidery accented select items to drive home a punk motif kicked off by all the exposed seams, contrasting with the ’70s-leaning florals and oversized eyewear. Skirts and shirts were swapped by men and women, with plenty of ties to go around — Fujita noted, “So much fashion has gone to the street; when I think of fashion, I still think of ties.” Not that the neckwear implied formality; sneakers, slide sandals and fuzzy bucket hats kept the collection relaxed.