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In New York, Tim Coppens‘ latest presentation was his fourth, and while the Belgian designer’s star has risen considerably since his first collection, the look remains distinct — clean, sophisticated and often technically complex. For Fall/Winter 2013, and despite the trend of athletic influences at the New York shows, there was legitimate pedigree to the sportiness of Coppens’ collection — he has had stints designing at both RLX and adidas, and the silhouettes this season were inspired in part by the skateboarding clothes he wore as a boy. Elsewhere, the pieces were largely odes to Coppens’ childhood — voluminously-cut bomber jackets and parkas paid homage to the oversized garments he wore growing up, while graffiti prints referenced the designer’s own youthful foray into the world of street art. A wealth of subtle, well-conceived details like uniquely placed zippers, closures and leather panels, meanwhile, added a street edge to the luxe, tailored looks. Overall, it was a collection that should cement Tim Coppens’ status as a star in the making.

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