5 Exceptional Exhibitors From CIFF's Raven and Raven Projects 2016

A little over a week has passed following Copenhagen’s fashion week presentation and with this year’s first buying season slowly drawing to a close, here is a look at five exhibitors from CIFF’s Raven and Raven Projects that caught our eye. As quieter, almost niche quarters to the immensity of CIFF’s LAB and Crystal Hall, Raven and Raven Projects are functional buying platforms that allow for a suitable mix of established and growing brands to display their wares in an environment that credits each presentation. By removing the often competitive edge looming in the ether of most settings, CIFF’s divisional setup did not overshadow less developed brands, but more gelled everyone together in a concept-like space that was easy to navigate and shop.

Han Kjøbenhavn

First off the bat is Copenhagen’s very own Han Kjøbenhavn. Having catapulted onto the world’s fashion radar, with physical retail expansion into destinations such as New York and Paris marking their stake, Han’s Raven presentation bore reference to the concept’s design-driven appeal. Amongst an extensive eyewear presentation with classic silhouettes such as the Doc and Stable on show, Han showcased a selection of forthcoming footwear designs in continuation of its collaborative partnership with Italian-based brand Casbia. Adjacent to this hung its fall/winter 2016 collection, referencing the humble, suburban beginnings of founders Jannik Davidsen and Tim Hancock, which was later presented in the infamous “grå hal/Grey Hall” inside the city’s much lauded Fristaden Christiania. Stay tuned to HYPEBEAST for news on collaborative projects with Han Kjøbenhaven in the coming months.

Willy Chavarria

Following a notable tenure with Ralph Lauren as one of the label’s designers, Willy Chavarria went on to use his ties with the American garment industry to co-found the Palmer Trading Company. This Massachusetts-born, New York-based menswear line served as a springboard to the eventual launch of Willy Chavarria for Palmer Trading Company, which was established as a premium outlet to support its mainline “PTC” collection. With the man himself at the helm of his stand, Willy Chavarria’s Raven presentation spoke of an undeniable understanding for specialty fabrics and garment construction. Characterized by billowing silhouettes and loose-form layers, Willy Chavarria’s line was a well formulated glimpse into the future of contemporary fashion as we slowly begin to accept the mass exodus away from fine tailoring.

Martin Asbjørn

As one of the more understated booths shown at Raven, highlighted by little more than a rail-mounted collection, Martin Asbjørn’s presentation developed well when the necessary time was given to stop and browse it. Having only established itself in 2012, the Copenhagen-based label is above all understated in true Danish fashion as it aims to “create a clear expression and simple signature for a global audience.” The collection shown presented a mix of subtle and sharp tailoring for a cohesive, easy-to-wear line in an array of seasonal colors across a selection of choice fabrics. Albeit young, Martin Asbjørn has the makings of a successful menswear label should it continue building on the silhouettes that have brought it thus far.

Nicholas Daley

Present in the spacious, function-first hall of Raven Projects, the eponymous menswear line of Central Saint Martins’ Nicholas Daley provided a notable contrast to the sterile framework of its scaffolded surrounding. Having developed a viable Japanese following following its establishment, Nicholas Daley did well to catch the attention of BEAMS’ buyers as early as his inaugural, graduate collection. Referencing somewhat of a mixture between what one might have expected from the Wild West and today’s ever-growing workwear trend, Nicholas Daley remains unique in its expression and can be characterized by square-cut tailoring and inset functionality. Through sourcing some of the highest quality materials, the collection is not at all mass produced and continues to retain an exclusivity less believed with established brands that still claim an investment in fabric sourcing – Nicholas really means it.

E. Tautz

Inside a white-walled, angular display booth, the E. Tautz CIFF presentation for the forthcoming season effectively supported the brand’s underlying ethos of sheer simplicity. As a tribute to heritage British tailoring, repurposed for a contemporary market, much of the selection has come directly from the brand’s factory in Blackburn, Lancashire and is quality assured. Going to great lengths to source some of the finest fabrics available, E. Tautz is actively challenging its position in the “tailored apparel” box it may be perceived as living in, by further redefining age old tailoring trends. E. Tautz seemingly innovates an international perception of how fine tailoring is defined, through playfully adjusting timeless silhouettes and furthermore expressing to its consumer that there is more to dressing well than a slim-fit pleated pant/dinner jacket set.