The 101: The Double-Riders Jacket

Embodying the essence of ‘cool’ since its initial design, the notoriously styled double-riders jacket is quite clear in its suggestion as a status symbol and has always possessed a certain synonymy with counterculture. From its origins up until today, the silhouette has undergone change but remains easily recognizable and consistent in aesthetic; the style has been replicated over many years and has stayed amongst the foremost staple items in menswear. Casually referred to as a motorcycle jacket, Irving Schott championed the style in 1928, when the iconic form first took shape. The jacket’s namesake was a cigar called the Perfecto, and it was given this moniker by Irving who peddled handmade leather products from door-to-door with his brother Jack. Fittingly, the Perfecto was introduced to its first retailer when a Harley Davidson distributor in New York chose to offer the double-riders jacket to accompany its selection of motorcycles. From this point on, an early association with motorcycle culture allowed the style to become quickly popularized. Fringes along the underside of the arm were added, intended to appeal to a female clientele and the jacket evolving into the indisputable biker uniform of the ‘70s and ‘80s. Over eight decades, the timeless jacket has undergone a change from a vintage to modern style while fastidiously conserving many of its original characteristics.

The jacket itself is generally defined by several traits; generally, a double-riders jacket features an off-center zippered enclosure in the front intended to improve windproofing, as well as shoulder epaulettes, slash pockets, zippered sleeve cuffs, and a cropped body with cinches at the waist. A thick horsehide was often used for the body, and bold silver zippers were added to punctuate the iconic look. Naturally, the style of the jacket was adapted over time, and during the 1940s several well-known appropriations were born, taking the form of the 618 and the 613. The Schott 618 was recognized by an updated fit while the 613 maintained this fit with the addition of two star accents on each epaulette. Designed and manufactured entirely in the USA, the Perfecto had already asserted itself in a chapter of history by the time the Schott brothers were called upon to provide wool pea coats for overseas troops during WWII. A contribution to the war effort acted to further cement the work of the Schott brothers as reliable and pervasive. Culturally, several figures were instrumental in popularizing the style. In film, the jacket was seen on American actors Marlon Brando, most notably in The Wild One (1953), as well as James Dean throughout his career. During the 1950s, the jacket endured as a symbol of rebellion, commonly complementing the style of rock ‘n’ roll stars and race car drivers alike. In music, reputable punk band The Ramones were widely considered synonymous with the style as the group was known to frequently wear double-riders style jackets during performances. Taking the stage in the 1970s during the CBGB-era of New York City punk music, the striking image of four black leather silhouettes was seen as something completely new.