SS27 趨勢前瞻：史上最炎熱時裝季過後將迎來甚麼？
當破紀錄高溫席捲伸展台，水漾藍、陽光橙、平腳內褲與透視恤衫等趨勢，似乎成為時尚回應氣溫上升的方式。
SS27 趨勢前瞻：史上最炎熱時裝季過後將迎來甚麼？
當破紀錄高溫席捲伸展台，水漾藍、陽光橙、平腳內褲與透視恤衫等趨勢，似乎成為時尚回應氣溫上升的方式。
巴黎與米蘭帶來 SS27 男裝的首波氣息，本季最強勁的趨勢已初見端倪。看過數十場時裝騷與 lookbook 後，我對今季最大的觀察是：最新系列顯然比 SS26 更貼合夏日。畢竟上一季的主要趨勢還包括制式大衣、皮褲和「奶奶針織」。雖然這些延續下來的元素仍在影響設計，但更多 SS27 作品確實呼應季節需要，主要透過讓身體在炎熱潮濕天氣中保持涼爽的設計取向。
6 月下旬席捲歐洲的極端高溫，令 Charli XCX 在《SS26》中的歌詞「我們正走在一條直通地獄的天橋上」，聽來不再只是誇張修辭，反倒像是巴黎伸展台的現場報道。事實上，6 月 25 日是法國有紀錄以來最炎熱的一天；同日，Sarah Burton 發表其首個 Givenchy Menswear 系列，Dries Van Noten、Yohji Yamamoto、Issey Miyake Man 與 Feng Chen Wang 等備受矚目的時裝騷亦相繼登場。
6 月下旬席捲歐洲的極端高溫，令 Charli XCX 在《SS26》中的歌詞「我們正走在一條直通地獄的天橋上」，聽來不再只是誇張修辭，反倒像是巴黎伸展台的現場報道。
雖然 SS27 在哥本哈根、紐約市及其他地方尚有更多篇章，但米蘭與巴黎持續釋出的訊號，已為整季定下清晰基調。我感受最深的是自由——近幾季被剪裁與皮草所牽引的男裝，始終未能真正帶來這種感覺。透視造型、緞面材質、外露平腳內褲，以及極短剪裁的輪廓，改寫了傳統規範；服裝亦添上鳥類圖騰、金屬鉚釘及滿版攝影印花等搶眼元素。色彩上，藍調與橙調碰撞出充滿活力的互動，既令人想起 Knicks 的歷史性勝利，也喚起海邊夕陽的召喚。這是為更漫長、更炎熱日子而設、自在且以愉悅為本的穿著方式——而今個夏天若教會我們甚麼，便是這樣的日子還會愈來愈多。
繼續閱讀，深入拆解 SS27 的主要趨勢：從非常規材質、縮小輪廓，到主導伸展台、充滿個性的細節。
極致透視
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dior/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Feng Chen Wang/Image 4: Im Man/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jacquemus/ Image 7 & 8: Hed Mayner/Image 9: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 10: Shinyakozuka/Image 11: Saint Laurent/Image 12: Paf/Vogue Runway
看著 SS27 伸展台上的半透明面料，很難不想起 barong——菲律賓男士在特別場合穿著的傳統透視恤衫。這種正式服裝通常以 piña 或 abaca 纖維製成，網眼般的結構令它呈現透視效果，讓涼風穿過布料。隨著西方天氣愈來愈像東南亞的熱帶氣候，巴黎時裝屋重新詮釋這種有助散熱的穿衣巧思，亦不足為奇。Kiko Kostadinov 與 Feng Chen Wang 的恤衫，便可見較貼近傳統 barong 輪廓的款式；Dior 的雙排扣西裝及 Hed Mayner 的長褲，則帶來更有趣的演繹。擺脫厚重紗線和容易困住熱氣的結構後，透視面料可望為 SS27 帶來更多層次穿搭的可能，無論是含蓄透視還是完全透明。
俐落緞面
Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Willy Chavarria/Image 2: Celine/Image 3: Ralph Lauren/Image 4: Givenchy/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Y-3/Image 7: Ami Paris/Image 8: Sunflower/Image 9: Dries Van Noten/Image 10: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
在男裝中，緞面一向帶有裝飾意味，通常只用於口袋巾和領帶；衣櫥其餘單品則傾向講求剪裁與實用耐穿。今季，無論是人造纖維還是真絲緞面，都為造型添上飄逸感與細緻質感。Willy Chavarria 選用花卉緞面打造全套造型；Celine 則以白色緞面製作恤衫與長褲，突顯材質純粹的光澤。更非常規的應用，見於 GmBH 的金色 V 領上衣及 Ami Paris 的絲滑啡色大衣。為何是現在？緞面通常輕盈透氣，尤其真絲緞面更向來以清涼特性見稱。最直接的穿法，自然是睡衣風格：以一件緞面恤衫或短褲搭配日常衣櫥單品；將絲巾繫於髖間，則是同一概念更低調的版本。
水色藍調
Image 1: Auralee/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Zegna/Image 4: Celine/Image 5: Willy Chavarria/Image 6: Kolor/Image 7: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 8: Shinyakozuka/Image 9: Hyacn/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Auralee/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Zegna/Image 4: Celine/Image 5: Willy Chavarria/Image 6: Kolor/Image 7: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 8: Shinyakozuka/Image 9: Hyacn/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Auralee/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Zegna/Image 4: Celine/Image 5: Willy Chavarria/Image 6: Kolor/Image 7: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 8: Shinyakozuka/Image 9: Hyacn/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Auralee/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Zegna/Image 4: Celine/Image 5: Willy Chavarria/Image 6: Kolor/Image 7: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 8: Shinyakozuka/Image 9: Hyacn/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Auralee/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Zegna/Image 4: Celine/Image 5: Willy Chavarria/Image 6: Kolor/Image 7: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 8: Shinyakozuka/Image 9: Hyacn/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Auralee/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Zegna/Image 4: Celine/Image 5: Willy Chavarria/Image 6: Kolor/Image 7: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 8: Shinyakozuka/Image 9: Hyacn/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Auralee/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Zegna/Image 4: Celine/Image 5: Willy Chavarria/Image 6: Kolor/Image 7: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 8: Shinyakozuka/Image 9: Hyacn/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Auralee/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Zegna/Image 4: Celine/Image 5: Willy Chavarria/Image 6: Kolor/Image 7: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 8: Shinyakozuka/Image 9: Hyacn/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Auralee/Image 2: Prada/Image 3: Zegna/Image 4: Celine/Image 5: Willy Chavarria/Image 6: Kolor/Image 7: Kiko Kostadinov/Image 8: Shinyakozuka/Image 9: Hyacn/Vogue Runway
正如我們在 FW26 報告所述，猩紅色幾乎主宰上季伸展台，從外套到針織單品，處處可見熾紅面料。隨著氣溫前所未有地攀升，光譜另一端的色調自然吸引視線，寄託著人們對蔚藍海水與遼闊海岸線的嚮往。綠松石藍是多場焦點時裝騷的主調，例如 SHINYAKOZUKA 的精工創作便以綠松石色裝飾閃爍；Kiko Kostadinov 更為時裝騷鋪設藍色地毯，呼應整體色彩。相近的天藍與電光藍亦見於 Auralee 的皮褸與短褲，以及 Zegna 的樂福鞋、亞麻恤衫和長褲。水色藍或許不如粉藍或靛藍般中性，卻能為一身中性色造型帶來有力點綴——無論是寬鬆鈕扣恤衫、鞋履，如 Jacquemus x Timberland Boat Shoe，抑或襪子。
橙色能量
Image 1: Dries Van Noten/Image 2: Ralph Lauren/Image 3: Auralee/Image 4: Jacquemus/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Saint Laurent/Image 7: Willy Chavarria/Image 8: Junya Watanabe/Image 9: Engineered Garments/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dries Van Noten/Image 2: Ralph Lauren/Image 3: Auralee/Image 4: Jacquemus/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Saint Laurent/Image 7: Willy Chavarria/Image 8: Junya Watanabe/Image 9: Engineered Garments/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dries Van Noten/Image 2: Ralph Lauren/Image 3: Auralee/Image 4: Jacquemus/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Saint Laurent/Image 7: Willy Chavarria/Image 8: Junya Watanabe/Image 9: Engineered Garments/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dries Van Noten/Image 2: Ralph Lauren/Image 3: Auralee/Image 4: Jacquemus/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Saint Laurent/Image 7: Willy Chavarria/Image 8: Junya Watanabe/Image 9: Engineered Garments/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dries Van Noten/Image 2: Ralph Lauren/Image 3: Auralee/Image 4: Jacquemus/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Saint Laurent/Image 7: Willy Chavarria/Image 8: Junya Watanabe/Image 9: Engineered Garments/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dries Van Noten/Image 2: Ralph Lauren/Image 3: Auralee/Image 4: Jacquemus/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Saint Laurent/Image 7: Willy Chavarria/Image 8: Junya Watanabe/Image 9: Engineered Garments/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dries Van Noten/Image 2: Ralph Lauren/Image 3: Auralee/Image 4: Jacquemus/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Saint Laurent/Image 7: Willy Chavarria/Image 8: Junya Watanabe/Image 9: Engineered Garments/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dries Van Noten/Image 2: Ralph Lauren/Image 3: Auralee/Image 4: Jacquemus/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Saint Laurent/Image 7: Willy Chavarria/Image 8: Junya Watanabe/Image 9: Engineered Garments/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dries Van Noten/Image 2: Ralph Lauren/Image 3: Auralee/Image 4: Jacquemus/Image 5: Doublet/Image 6: Saint Laurent/Image 7: Willy Chavarria/Image 8: Junya Watanabe/Image 9: Engineered Garments/Vogue Runway
作為藍色的互補色，橙色今季同樣頻繁出現，且常與藍色共存於同一造型。Dries Van Noten 的血橙色收斂卻大膽，既出現在日落漸變大衣的下襬，也覆蓋一個超大旅行手袋。Willy Chavarria 的短身柑橘色夾克，以及 Saint Laurent 的純橙色 V 領冷衫，則帶來更明亮的橙調。坦白說，橙色不像藍色般廣受喜愛，也不那麼容易配搭。選擇如 Jacquemus 所用的鐵鏽橙，可稍為中和色彩；又或把鮮橙色留給手袋、帽子等單一配飾，避免色調壓過整體造型。無論採用哪種深淺色調，橙色的崛起都含蓄地表明：灼熱陽光才是 SS27 的真正主角。
迷你外套
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Willy Chavarria/Image 3: Celine/Image 4: Junya Watanabe/Image 5: Paz Normal/Image 6: Prada/Image 7: Kenzo/Image 8: Egonlab/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Willy Chavarria/Image 3: Celine/Image 4: Junya Watanabe/Image 5: Paz Normal/Image 6: Prada/Image 7: Kenzo/Image 8: Egonlab/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Willy Chavarria/Image 3: Celine/Image 4: Junya Watanabe/Image 5: Paz Normal/Image 6: Prada/Image 7: Kenzo/Image 8: Egonlab/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Willy Chavarria/Image 3: Celine/Image 4: Junya Watanabe/Image 5: Paz Normal/Image 6: Prada/Image 7: Kenzo/Image 8: Egonlab/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Willy Chavarria/Image 3: Celine/Image 4: Junya Watanabe/Image 5: Paz Normal/Image 6: Prada/Image 7: Kenzo/Image 8: Egonlab/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Willy Chavarria/Image 3: Celine/Image 4: Junya Watanabe/Image 5: Paz Normal/Image 6: Prada/Image 7: Kenzo/Image 8: Egonlab/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Willy Chavarria/Image 3: Celine/Image 4: Junya Watanabe/Image 5: Paz Normal/Image 6: Prada/Image 7: Kenzo/Image 8: Egonlab/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Willy Chavarria/Image 3: Celine/Image 4: Junya Watanabe/Image 5: Paz Normal/Image 6: Prada/Image 7: Kenzo/Image 8: Egonlab/Vogue Runway
說到 Willy Chavarria 的短身柑橘色夾克，今季亦湧現大量縮小版外套輪廓，包括 Celine 的鮮紅色迷你海軍大衣、Junya Watanabe 的毛邊無領牛仔卡車司機外套，以及 Prada 一系列貼身外套，涵蓋卡車司機外套、飛行夾克與寬鬆夾克等不同顏色及款式。這是縮水通脹，還是有意為之的設計選擇？除了夏天減去多餘重量與布料的實際考量，當想到近幾季大膽的皮帶扣與繫於髖間的絲巾等配飾備受注目，外套變短便顯得合情合理。迷你外套的趨勢，也為 SS27 下一個輪廓——平腳短褲——揭開序幕。
平腳短褲
Image 1: Lgn/Image 2: Doublet/Image 3: Simone Rocha/Image 4: Charles Jeffrey Loverboy/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jw Anderson/Image 7: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Lgn/Image 2: Doublet/Image 3: Simone Rocha/Image 4: Charles Jeffrey Loverboy/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jw Anderson/Image 7: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Lgn/Image 2: Doublet/Image 3: Simone Rocha/Image 4: Charles Jeffrey Loverboy/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jw Anderson/Image 7: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Lgn/Image 2: Doublet/Image 3: Simone Rocha/Image 4: Charles Jeffrey Loverboy/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jw Anderson/Image 7: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Lgn/Image 2: Doublet/Image 3: Simone Rocha/Image 4: Charles Jeffrey Loverboy/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jw Anderson/Image 7: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Lgn/Image 2: Doublet/Image 3: Simone Rocha/Image 4: Charles Jeffrey Loverboy/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jw Anderson/Image 7: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Lgn/Image 2: Doublet/Image 3: Simone Rocha/Image 4: Charles Jeffrey Loverboy/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jw Anderson/Image 7: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Lgn/Image 2: Doublet/Image 3: Simone Rocha/Image 4: Charles Jeffrey Loverboy/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jw Anderson/Image 7: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Lgn/Image 2: Doublet/Image 3: Simone Rocha/Image 4: Charles Jeffrey Loverboy/Image 5: Dries Van Noten/Image 6: Jw Anderson/Image 7: Gmbh/Vogue Runway
在 SS26 伸展台報告中，我們將寬大鬆身的「超大短褲」定為當季關鍵下裝。這股風格今季仍具影響力，但與之截然相反的平腳短褲亦同步冒起。無論拉至腰線以上，還是完全當作外穿短褲展示，平腳短褲很可能成為 SS27 下裝的最新轉向。JW Anderson、Willy Chavarria 和 Dries Van Noten 等正在定義當下男裝的設計師，均將外露平腳短褲納入造型。GmbH 與 Charles Jeffrey Loverboy 玩味運用經典格紋和條紋平腳短褲圖案；Anderson 與 Simone Rocha 則以花卉緞面提花，為這個輪廓注入高級感。這或許意味著，從 2026 年起，你的貼身平腳內褲也是造型的一部分——不管別人是否看得見。
鉚釘牛仔布
Image 1: Dolce & Gabana/Image 2: Acne Studios/Image 3: Amiri/Image 4: Bluemarble/Image 5: Louis Vuitton/Image 6: Kidsuper/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dolce & Gabana/Image 2: Acne Studios/Image 3: Amiri/Image 4: Bluemarble/Image 5: Louis Vuitton/Image 6: Kidsuper/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dolce & Gabana/Image 2: Acne Studios/Image 3: Amiri/Image 4: Bluemarble/Image 5: Louis Vuitton/Image 6: Kidsuper/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dolce & Gabana/Image 2: Acne Studios/Image 3: Amiri/Image 4: Bluemarble/Image 5: Louis Vuitton/Image 6: Kidsuper/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dolce & Gabana/Image 2: Acne Studios/Image 3: Amiri/Image 4: Bluemarble/Image 5: Louis Vuitton/Image 6: Kidsuper/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dolce & Gabana/Image 2: Acne Studios/Image 3: Amiri/Image 4: Bluemarble/Image 5: Louis Vuitton/Image 6: Kidsuper/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dolce & Gabana/Image 2: Acne Studios/Image 3: Amiri/Image 4: Bluemarble/Image 5: Louis Vuitton/Image 6: Kidsuper/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Dolce & Gabana/Image 2: Acne Studios/Image 3: Amiri/Image 4: Bluemarble/Image 5: Louis Vuitton/Image 6: Kidsuper/Vogue Runway
SS27 發表前夕，裝飾元素結合機能取向服裝的搭配已漸成氣候。新晉品牌 Satoshi Nakamoto 的標誌美學，正是由精緻水鑽與鉚釘所塑造，當中最著名的例子便是 Vans Era 95 Gems 鞋款。Dolce & Gabbana 的 SS27 系列亦呼應這種感覺，將大型寶石鑲嵌於牛仔褲與冷衫之上。另一方面，Louis Vuitton 在牛仔褲上輕綴字母花圖案，令人聯想起 Chrome Hearts 的圖騰，以及這個洛杉磯品牌過去一年在網絡引發的熱烈討論。這些裝飾牛仔褲說明，鉚釘牛仔布其實相當多變：可以如 Acne Studios 般僅沿縫線勾勒，也可像 Bluemarble 的鉚釘漩渦圖案般繁複。
鳥群飛進時裝
Image 1: Y-3/Image 2: 3.paradis/Image 3: Wooyoungmi/Image 4: Shinyakozuka/Image 5: Kidsuper/Image 6: Amiri/Image 7: Jw Anderson/Image 8: Lemaire/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Y-3/Image 2: 3.paradis/Image 3: Wooyoungmi/Image 4: Shinyakozuka/Image 5: Kidsuper/Image 6: Amiri/Image 7: Jw Anderson/Image 8: Lemaire/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Y-3/Image 2: 3.paradis/Image 3: Wooyoungmi/Image 4: Shinyakozuka/Image 5: Kidsuper/Image 6: Amiri/Image 7: Jw Anderson/Image 8: Lemaire/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Y-3/Image 2: 3.paradis/Image 3: Wooyoungmi/Image 4: Shinyakozuka/Image 5: Kidsuper/Image 6: Amiri/Image 7: Jw Anderson/Image 8: Lemaire/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Y-3/Image 2: 3.paradis/Image 3: Wooyoungmi/Image 4: Shinyakozuka/Image 5: Kidsuper/Image 6: Amiri/Image 7: Jw Anderson/Image 8: Lemaire/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Y-3/Image 2: 3.paradis/Image 3: Wooyoungmi/Image 4: Shinyakozuka/Image 5: Kidsuper/Image 6: Amiri/Image 7: Jw Anderson/Image 8: Lemaire/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Y-3/Image 2: 3.paradis/Image 3: Wooyoungmi/Image 4: Shinyakozuka/Image 5: Kidsuper/Image 6: Amiri/Image 7: Jw Anderson/Image 8: Lemaire/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Y-3/Image 2: 3.paradis/Image 3: Wooyoungmi/Image 4: Shinyakozuka/Image 5: Kidsuper/Image 6: Amiri/Image 7: Jw Anderson/Image 8: Lemaire/Vogue Runway
從傳遞和平意象的白鴿，到空靈的日本丹頂鶴，鳥類成為 SS27 印花與圖像中意想不到的主角。鳥類以無數形態受到世界各地文化推崇，今季亦以不同風格呈現：Yohji Yamamoto 的手繪鳥圖案 T 恤、Wooyoungmi 受東亞啟發的鶴鳥印花，以及 SHINYAKOZUKA 的飛行鳥類剪影。鳥類象徵和平、自由、智慧與長壽等理念，在動盪難測的時代正是討喜的裝飾。這個圖騰雖然古老，重點卻在於其多樣性：手繪、刺繡、印花、剪影，每個品牌都從同一概念中找到不同的鳥。
巨幅圖像印花
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Shinyakozuka/Image 3: Dries Van Noten/Image 4: Undercover/Image 5: Hyacn/Image 6: Kidsuper/Image 7: Simone Rocha/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Shinyakozuka/Image 3: Dries Van Noten/Image 4: Undercover/Image 5: Hyacn/Image 6: Kidsuper/Image 7: Simone Rocha/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Shinyakozuka/Image 3: Dries Van Noten/Image 4: Undercover/Image 5: Hyacn/Image 6: Kidsuper/Image 7: Simone Rocha/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Shinyakozuka/Image 3: Dries Van Noten/Image 4: Undercover/Image 5: Hyacn/Image 6: Kidsuper/Image 7: Simone Rocha/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Shinyakozuka/Image 3: Dries Van Noten/Image 4: Undercover/Image 5: Hyacn/Image 6: Kidsuper/Image 7: Simone Rocha/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Shinyakozuka/Image 3: Dries Van Noten/Image 4: Undercover/Image 5: Hyacn/Image 6: Kidsuper/Image 7: Simone Rocha/Vogue Runway
Image 1: Sacai/Image 2: Shinyakozuka/Image 3: Dries Van Noten/Image 4: Undercover/Image 5: Hyacn/Image 6: Kidsuper/Image 7: Simone Rocha/Vogue Runway
印花正變得愈來愈大，就是如此。今季，攝影與藝術啟發的印花被放大至誇張比例，部分更由頭到腳覆蓋整個造型。在巴黎，兩位日本設計師採取相近手法：sacai 的 Chitose Abe 展示一套將懷舊夜店照片織入布料的兩件式西裝；SHINYAKOZUKA 則把帶綠色調的城市天際線化為外套，並印於半透明七分褲上。Hyacn 與 Simone Rocha 的手法較為含蓄，分別將滿版照片印花——藍色肖像與樹冠——置於經典長袖圓領上衣，作為更實穿的入門方式。尚待探索的是下半身：全印花長褲或短褲，將圖像移至造型中鮮少承載它的部位。
展望未來
Justin Shin/Getty Images
雖然巴黎與米蘭的 SS27 時裝週已結束，哥本哈根與紐約市仍有更多內容有待揭曉。儘管這一季距今仍有一年，面料、色彩與輪廓上的設計決定，很可能繼續受持續升溫影響。這並不代表沒有長褲或長袖，而是意味著必須將季節需要放在首位，重新思考經典單品。
SS27 趨勢雖源於炎熱天氣下讓身體更自在的實際需要，亦催生出挑戰經典男裝規範的單品。今季的整體自由感，透過高裸露度服裝與輕盈材質推動，正好平衡過去幾季主導的剪裁粗花呢與皮革。不過，我很想看看透視、光澤感造型會否繼續融入男裝，以及消費者是否真的願意一路展露至只剩平腳內褲，抑或仍會選擇 SS26 的超大輪廓。
SS27 與其說是對既有男裝的重大決裂，不如說是為適應新的現實，而放寬長久以來的規範。
理論上，這種讓身體獲得解放的做法似乎合理；但實際上，男裝一向克制的歷史顯示，兩種相反取向更可能融合，而非徹底決裂。SS27 與其說是對既有男裝的重大決裂，不如說是為適應新的現實，而放寬長久以來的規範。時裝正在追上這個事實：在極端環境下，為幻想與理想而穿衣的空間愈來愈小。消費者亦然，他們透過品牌主導的教育及 Fabricatuerialist 等數碼意見領袖，愈來愈了解該穿著甚麼面料。
最後，你或會好奇，在這個由實用性推動的故事中，鉚釘牛仔褲、鳥類圖騰與滿版印花究竟扮演甚麼角色。它們雖不能助你避開暑熱，卻說明更透、更短，並不與大膽表達相互排斥。最後三項趨勢初看似乎偏離主題，實際上卻相當重要：它們證明即使天氣炎熱，仍有空間塑造原創造型。穿衣方式或會愈來愈由功能而非潮流主導，但由個性與鋒芒驅動的風格，短期內不會消失。
