Dior 正式發佈 2024 秋冬女裝系列大秀
女裝創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 自設計反映出 1960 年代,高級訂製服工坊跨入普羅大眾的過渡時期。
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Dior 在女裝創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 的引領下,於巴黎時裝週期間正式發佈 2024 冬季女裝系列大秀。
在此系列裡,Maria Grazia Chiuri 自設計反映出 1960 年代末期,高級訂製服工坊紛紛跨出訂製服領域,並跨入普羅大眾的過渡時期。由時任 Dior 創意總監 Marc Bohan 委託其助手 Philippe Guibourgé 所主導的 Miss Dior 女性系列時裝系列也於 1967 年誕生,那時最大的挑戰莫過於設計、製作出可以量產並符合創意,亦可迎合生活節奏的設計服飾。
在當時日益複雜與加速變遷的社會中,大眾的焦點逐漸移轉到放眼全球,薈萃藝術、時尚、建築與音樂等領域的視覺美學,自然建構出一種前所未見的創新文化。義大利藝術家暨設計師 Gabriella Crespi 自然成為 Marc Bohan 的靈感泉源。對 Maria Grazia Chiuri 而言,Gabriella Crespi 象徵著當時亟欲闖出名號的獨立女性先鋒,而她的作品多年來都是 Dior 設計靈感之一。
本系列仿如誌慶著當時新設立的 Miss Dior 專賣店於巴黎開幕時,所推出讓眾多女性得以搭配出獨特風貌新衣著造型的剪裁與材質。對 Maria Grazia Chiuri 而言,無論是日常生活、工作或旅行途中,圍巾是不可或缺的飾品,既可以依照搭配需求調整,亦可保暖,更可依據造型所需具搭配裝飾效果。如 A 字形的流線剪裁、線條,進而強化女性造型搭配不再受限,朝新的境界邁進。
此回的用色呼應 Marc Bohan 當時運用的顏色,例如,白、橙、粉紅、霓紅綠與搭襯妝容的色彩。重點設計單品囊括以雙面喀什米爾羊毛與斜紋布面料製作的小洋裝、長褲、大衣、夾克與及膝短裙。而 Miss Dior 標誌則如調色盤般,以藍、紅與棕色配色重新詮釋,金屬釘飾細節改以珠飾替換,刺繡更為整體設計挹注前衛風格與細緻度。
印度藝術家 Shakuntala Kulkarni 自探索女性身體與不同空間的關係,構思出模特兒邁步於展場裝置藝術中的呈現方式,藉此方式傳遞出多元、自主和多才多藝的女性光芒,也重新開啟 Miss Dior 象徵無限創意的意涵。
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