丹寧、斜紋軟呢與塗鴉!Diesel 2025 秋冬大秀以解構風格掀起派對狂潮
L貫徹勇於打破自我的形象,帶來各種更大膽、更頹靡、更創新及更低腰的設計。
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Glenn Martens 職掌之 Diesel 2025 秋冬大秀正式登陸米蘭時裝週,以解構風格掀起派對狂潮。
DIESEL 本季貫徹勇於打破自我的形象,帶來各種更大膽、更頹靡、更創新及更低腰的設計。這場秀在歷史上最大規模的塗鴉裝置中展開,超過三公里的塗鴉布料,由約 7,000 位業餘及專業的塗鴉藝術家所組成的全球街頭藝術集體共同創作,猶如街頭靈魂的詩篇。
「很高興見證全球數千名創作者共同參與秀場佈景設計 。我們給予全球街頭藝術完全的創作自由——他們以各自獨特的方式表達自我,這個項目花了幾個月的時間來完成,這正是 DIESEL 所秉持的全民精神。」—— DIESEL 創意總監 Glenn Martens
DIESEL 的語言——丹寧、工裝、流行元素、手工藝——透過解構重組實現多元碰撞。品牌對經典廓形進行再造升級,在顛覆工藝定式中構建全新美學體系。俐落剪裁摒棄衣領設計,斜紋軟呢夾克綴以丹寧腰飾,模擬牛仔褲腰頭形態,疊穿提花超短褲呈現做舊丹寧質感。男裝採用未處理毛邊剪裁,氯丁橡膠黏合面料突顯原始工業質感;女裝則以巴斯克剪裁斜紋軟呢上衣搭配緊身牛仔褲,可拆卸丹寧裙擺重構傳統比例。
超高腰斜紋軟呢夾克與同材質巴斯克剪裁上衣進行廓形較量,下裝搭配視覺衝擊強烈的超低腰斜紋軟呢半裙,透過內置彈力腰頭實現懸垂反差。此類超低腰設計仍貫穿整個系列,從裙裝、褲裝到牛仔褲,時而以彈力腰帶強化整體性,時而製造衝突,形成反轉差異。
實驗性設計貫穿全系列,塑化處理丹寧夾克、束胸衣與牛仔褲呈現全件覆膜工藝,僅保留口袋功能性剪裁。薄紗植絨工藝模擬衣物解構痕跡,絞花針織紋理如懸浮體表的浮雕印記。提花織機再造的薄紗面料弱化牛仔原始質感,經解構剪裁轉型為連衣裙、無肩帶禮服,或包覆填充銀箔夾克與大衣。極低腰的 Diesel bumster 牛仔褲巧妙融入可調式內襯,確保貼合身形。其大膽設計突破界限,僅搭配一片胸部大小的貼布,上面印有等比例的襯衫圖案,隨性貼合於身體之上,營造出前衛且不拘一格的視覺美學。
Double D 手袋以粗花呢材質演繹智慧性優雅,本季同步推出兩款中性包袋:Flag-D 慵懶廓形托特包搭載仿小馬毛壓紋寬幅 Logo肩帶;Load-D 橢圓包體兩端嵌鑄品牌標誌性 D Logo,構築工業風符號。男士短靴搭載超厚齒紋橡膠底,拖鞋則採用做舊感千鳥格紋面料。粗花呢貓跟鞋於鞋頭壓印立體 D Logo,同系列斜紋軟呢或做舊丹寧高跟鞋則透過模壓鞋跟實現紋理延續。
眼鏡系列首發 Liquifie-D 系列:樹脂漸變色調塑造曲直交融的厚實質感,液態鉸鏈結構承托 Oval D Logo。腕表新作 D-Curve、Wrap-D 與 D-Rush 透過三維曲面技術重構品牌標誌性 Oval D Logo,實現從平面標識到可穿戴雕塑的演變。
有興趣的讀者們敬請留意米蘭時裝週的相關報導。
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