Raf Simons 2018 春夏系列
穿梭在唐人街的「銀翼殺手」。
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曼哈頓唐人街天橋下散發着迷幻的霓虹燈光,開場模特身穿黑色橡膠大衣、頭戴園丁帽、手持透明雨傘、腳踩高筒雨靴,Raf Simons 從一開始便為 2018 春夏系列奠定了電影基調,而這第二場於紐約舉辦發佈會靈感正是源自導演 Ridley Scott 的經典之作《Blade Runner》。這位比利時設計師在新一季中對過往作品進行回顧的同時又加以重塑,因此他不僅僅再度與英國藝術家 Peter Saville 展開合作,更將 Joy Division 和 New Order 的復古封面圖案重新帶回。「這是一次關於亞洲與西方文化的碰撞,但從中又夾雜著新浪潮朋克態度。」Simons 向 WWD 說道。而這一點單從穿插始終,印有 New Order 字樣的燈籠便可體會得到。寬鬆且帶有破壞細節的 V 領毛衣與箱型剪裁的西裝外套重歸視線,層次感豐富且帶有些許 DIY 意味的造型則仍凸顯著 Raf Simons 設計中少不了的年輕叛逆氣息。自從接過美國時裝屋 Calvin Klein 的首席創意官帥印之後,Raf Simons 顯然重心有所偏移,從上一季開始得到評論的兩極化更加明顯,但亦無礙其設計繼續席捲街頭。