獨家走進 Stone Island 染色研發實驗室
Stone Island 在上月初攜限量版雜誌《Famiglia》抵達倫敦，與 Hypebeast 一同慶祝品牌成立 40 周年，這本刊物探討了 Stone Island 的過往歷史及社群文化的形成，雖然在 HBX 上架後高速售罄，但依舊能夠於 Stone Island 旗艦店購買。
而本文就帶來由 Alecio Ferrari 操刀拍攝，獨家走進 Stone Island 的染色研發實驗室，一窺品牌傲人的製衣與染色工藝，當中能看到種種調色、染色的動作，在工作人員一絲不苟的專注執行下，才形成現在市面上消費者熟悉的單品。
除了圖片之外，以下我們也節錄了《Famiglia》雜誌中 Research in Motion 章節的一篇文章 Behind the Process，特別訪問到自 1994 年就在 Stone Island 製作團隊工作的 Alessandro Mazzaro，有興趣的讀者不妨多加留意。
When asked about the making of some of Stone Island’s most iconic pieces, Alessandro Mazzaro, who works in the company’s production team, tends to get poetic. “There are two sides to any Stone Island garment,” he says. “There is an emotional side, and a quality side – but together, they form something that has become the brand’s indescribable DNA.”
Mazzaro has worked at the company since 1994 but says that coming up with a succinct, play-by-play description of its creation timeline is still as difficult as it was in his early days. Instead, the process he describes comes across as a fluid back-and-forth synergy, in which design inspiration and fabric innovation inform one another.
A garment’s beginnings can take place as far in advance as two years prior to its release. Typically, Mazzaro says, this process begins with the design and production teams, who together create a mood board of inspiration. They then work closely alongside one another to explore finishes, fabrics, treatments and trimmings that can achieve the desired effect, drawing on archives containing 40 years’ worth of textile research, experimentation, and innovation.
Fabrics and yarns (many of which are now recycled or from sustainable sources) are supplied by both Italian and overseas companies – with a particular focus on Japan and Korea – while product development is managed through an internal system. But the bread and butter of Stone Island, he says, is when it comes to the dyeing. “80 percent of our product, more or less, is realized in garment dye, and the DNA and know-how of this factory and people that work in this factory are attached to this kind of process.”
In the factory’s dye labs, experts have spent years perfecting recipes that have pushed the boundaries of textile coloring into unchartered territory. From the ability to dye specialist and technical fibers, to creating shades and hues that perfectly represent the vision of the brand’s designers. But with experimentation comes trial and error, and when it becomes clear that the design isn’t plausible, it is up to the production team to communicate this to the designer – after which together, they work on a solution.
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