Everything You Need to Look Out for at London Fashion Week SS24

From Daniel Lee’s Burberry and Skepta’s MAINS London to Matty Bovan’s upcycled spectacles and AARON ESH’s NEWGEN debut, here is what’s going down in the British capital this September.

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London Fashion Week is a playground for emerging designers looking to make a statement.

While Paris brings together the world’s biggest names under one roof, London has continuously cultivated exceptional designers and spearheaded their careers on British soil.

While the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear season has come and gone, the co-ed division is upon us, slated to arrive in London next month. September is London at its busiest; summer ends, kids go back to school, and flocks of fashion-hungry creatives land under the capital’s gloomy skies in hopes of catching a glimpse of the latest from Britain’s finest. SS24 will welcome a handful of first-time talent, gracing London’s competitive runways for their debut while amplifying the country’s household names.

Running from September 15 to 19, London Fashion Week will return to regular programming following a sparse menswear season. SS24 welcomes our usual headlining acts, including JW Anderson, Burberry, and Simone Rocha, while opening its golden gates to several emerging brands and first-time runway participants.

The five-day affair is packed with dozens of collection reveals, seeing British imprint Stefan Cooke continue its stance at BFC NEWGEN, followed by Edward Crutchley and Natasha Zinko. Billowing menswear designer HARRI will present his first runway show at London Fashion Week ahead of Chipova Lowena’s striking womenswear supported by the BFC Fashion Trust.

Jonathan Anderson‘s JW Anderson kicks off the second day of London Fashion Week, contrasted by Daniel Lee’s Burberry on the final day, showing his largest collection at the helm of the House. Matty Bovan will return to the London Fashion Week stage, expanding his upcycled universe with dramatic manipulations that speak for themselves.

Norwegian label Holzweiler is departing Copenhagen Fashion Week and transcending into the British capital, preparing for its UK runway debut alongside Skepta’s MAINS line and emerging designer AARON ESH — entering the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN scheme this season. The Central Saint Martins graduate is one of the youngest designers on the London Fashion Week schedule, slated to deliver a soft menswear wardrobe with a haute couture personality.

As London Fashion Week SS24 returns to UK streets, Hypebeast looks forward to the most exciting shows of the season.

Burberry

Daniel Lee was appointed Creative Director of Burberry in late 2022, looking to modernize the century-old luxury label after Riccardo Tisci‘s five-year tenure at the House. Lee has seen success thus far, showing his debut collection at London Fashion Week earlier this year. He has blessed Burberry with a contemporary refresh, honoring its lasting heritage while steering it onto fresh grounds.

While Lee’s Fall/Winter 2023 runway was heroic and unafraid, his Spring 2024 collection turned Burberry’s British checks psychedelic and paid tribute to Savile Row craftsmanship. Burberry will return to its customary slot at London Fashion Week this season, rumored to deliver Lee’s most extensive collection to date. Scheduled for September 18, Burberry will escort guests onto British grounds once again — seeing Daniel Lee evolve the brand’s design language for current generations.

Matty Bovan

Central Saint Martins knitwear graduate Matty Bovan will premiere his latest creations at London Fashion Week this season. The Yorkshire-born creative debuted at Milan Fashion Week in September 2022, presenting distressed and vibrant signatures with a handcrafted aura.

For Fall/Winter 2023, Bovan took his fashion-hungry audience to London’s luxurious Mayfair neighborhood, opening the doors to private members club, Langan’s. The rising designer was informed by sinister activity spearheaded by artificial intelligence, using discarded textiles that expand his sustainable output. The collection was grandiose and unafraid, taking on a mind of its own and leaving us begging for more. Bovan will return to UK streets this September, anticipating his best collection to date.

HARRI

Kerala-born, London-based designer HARRI is preparing for his first runway show under the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN umbrella. Since launching his label, HARRI’s inflatable latex clothing has gone viral on digital screens worldwide — seeing an uproar for his humorous design methods. Sam Smith wore custom HARRI at the 2023 BRIT AWARDS, guiding him toward international domination after presenting a sculptural showcase at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023.

For Spring/Summer 2024, HARRI will host an intimate showcase at London’s Old Selfridges Hotel, offering a closer look at billowing garments that play with proportions and silhouettes. The designer’s balloon-ish motifs will continue to expand, marking his territory within the British landscape this September.

AARON ESH

Central Saint Martins graduate AARON ESH is becoming one to watch, building excitement for his premiere at London Fashion Week under BFC NEWGEN. The London-born designer was nominated for the LVMH Prize earlier this year, becoming a finalist alongside Magliano, Bettter, LUAR, and five others. Japanese talent Satoshi Kuwata ultimately won the award, following in the footsteps of Grace Wales Bonner, S.S.DALEY, and Nensi Dojaka.

AARON ESH shows no signs of slowing down, preparing to open the doors to his romantic menswear universe. His gender-fluid design practice is dominated by elevated tailoring with a sensible nuance, explaining the sensation of falling in love in early adulthood. Esh takes inspiration from intimate womenswear and haute couture techniques, injecting a sense of refined technicality into essential menswear silhouettes.

MAINS London

British rapper Skepta is stepping away from producing hard-hitting beats to debut his fashion label, MAINS London, at London Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2024. The brand garnered global virality in 2018 after Skepta and Naomi Campbell stepped out in matching MAINS London underwear. The artist’s passion project has been in the works for years, teasing new streetwear designs at the 2023 Wimbledon finals and Formula 1’s Silverstone track.

MAINS London will mark its entrance to London Fashion Week with its first on-schedule runway show. The graphic-heavy collection will consist of “staple, crazy, beautiful, wearable clothing” designed alongside Chief Designer Mikey Pearce. Although limited information has been announced, the showcase will occur on September 16 at 8 p.m. GMT in Central London.

Holzweiler

Oslo-based label Holzweiler hosts one of the most extensive shows at Copenhagen Fashion Week every season, bringing its functional and romantic personality to the Danish capital. Holzweiler is migrating onto larger grounds, heading to London for Spring/Summer 2024. The brand’s UK runway debut is not to be missed, led under the Creative Direction of Maria Holzweiler.

Holzweiler often embraces the great outdoors, looking to alfresco environments for inspiration. The co-ed label’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection skydived into the capital with recycled parachutes and an aviation identity, gliding across the runway “In Motion.” The offering deconstructed everyday uniforms, rebuilding them with deadstock materials that complement the body’s natural form. Holzweiler will storm London Fashion Week on September 17, 2023, leaving us eager for the day to come.

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