Kiko Kostadinov SS24 Supplies Utilitarian Uniforms Draped With Vibrancy

Decking the halls of Palais de Tokyo with pattern-heavy ensembles and utilitarian uniforms to kick off the final day of Paris Fashion Week.

Fashion 
17,862 Hypes

British-Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov returned to Paris Fashion Week earlier this year, unveiling his latest menswear offerings at Lycée Henri-IV. Womenswear designers Laura and Deanna Fanning are up next, opening the final day of Paris Fashion Week women’s with an intimate showcase at Palais de Tokyo.

The Fanning twins have managed Kiko Kostadinov’s female line for several years, identifiable with ruffled uniforms crafted through a utilitarian lens. For Spring/Summer 2024, the brand decked the halls of the Parisian museum with blue-tinted school chairs. The collection expanded the duo’s draped ideology, delivering a 31-look offering grounded in fabric manipulation and vibrant patterns.

Silk textiles majestically grasped the lights above, bouncing from dainty tank tops and twisted trousers. Pleated variations arrive in light yellow and green tones, while mobile tops clung from the neck with contrasting details. Fresh techniques were used across hybrid garments and textile co-ords, seeing the latter receive V-shaped cutouts and linear decor. Functional ensembles were reimagined with cinched waistlines and buttoned accents, while fuzzy accessories promoted patchwork styles.

Squared tops with elongated perimeters followed tousled shirting and sheer garments, completing the collection with long-haired robes and mixed-breed baroque footwear.

Speaking to Hypebeast backstage about the collection, Laura and Deanna Fanning say:

“We started the collection with a reference image of patchwork, and initially, it was a really old image of a Sonia Delaunay dress with a satin drape in black and had velvet patchwork in multicolor. We started talking about why this image is so interesting. Why is it so relevant now? Why is it so modern? We began working on textile manipulations with patchwork, and then we thought, oh, how do we use this idea? We started draping panels of fabric in different ways around the body. This led us to look through history and reflect on our heroins throughout fashion design.

I usually shy away from black, but I was really happy with a lot of the crinkle fabrics we had, visco steel, and a lot of sheer. So I think wherever there was black in the collection, it was either really stiff black, like in some of the denim suits. Those silhouettes are really strong, with the texture and fabric catching the light in interesting ways. The fabrications led us to work with dark colors in ways that we haven’t done before.

We presented a new shoe this season and we’re really happy with it. It’s a hybrid, so the toe is like a baroque; you’ve got all the details with the leather on the top; it’s quite minimal, almost like a glove. It looks like glove leather, but it’s not. And then it’s got this rubber sole tooling that we developed in 3D with moulding and textures. I think that the profile is interesting because it’s lifted at the toe and it’s got quite a high arch. It has some ideas that you would find in a sneaker, but it’s also a real hybrid and combines multiple designs.”

Take a closer look at Kiko Kostadinov’s SS24 womenswear collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned for more Paris Fashion Week content on Hypebeast.

Elsewhere, John Galliano’s Maison Margiela crawls into character for SS24.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

Bold Hues and Intriguing Drapery Are Suspended in Motion in Kiko Kostadinov’s SS24 Campaign
Fashion

Bold Hues and Intriguing Drapery Are Suspended in Motion in Kiko Kostadinov’s SS24 Campaign

Photographed by Chris Lensz and styled by Imruh Asha.

Kiko Kostadinov Expands His Visionary Language for FW24
Fashion 

Kiko Kostadinov Expands His Visionary Language for FW24

The British-Bulgarian designer revealed in inaugural collaboration with Levi’s while grounding his collection in asymmetry.

Chet Lo Rings in SS24 With Seductive New Campaign
Fashion 

Chet Lo Rings in SS24 With Seductive New Campaign

With the collection out now.


Gramicci's New SS24 Campaign Explores London's Alternative Landmarks
Fashion 

Gramicci's New SS24 Campaign Explores London's Alternative Landmarks

Encapsulating the Gramicci’s Californian countercultural spirit of the 90s.

G-SHOCK Reveals New MUDMASTER Flagship Watch
Watches

G-SHOCK Reveals New MUDMASTER Flagship Watch

Appearing in gray, maroon and forest green.

Julie Mehretu Comments on Erasure and Displacement in New White Cube Exhibition
Art

Julie Mehretu Comments on Erasure and Displacement in New White Cube Exhibition

On view at the Bermondsey location until November 5.

Aries and ROA Unveil Future-Facing Hiking Boot Collaboration
Footwear 

Aries and ROA Unveil Future-Facing Hiking Boot Collaboration

Taking the campaign to Newcastle, North East England, to align itself with Britain’s great outdoors.

How Long Gone Partner Up with Pacific Tote Company for Bag and Pouch Collaboration
Fashion

How Long Gone Partner Up with Pacific Tote Company for Bag and Pouch Collaboration

The cult podcast presents an all-new Big Sur Tote and Zuma Pouch designed for everyday, on-the-go use.

Moncler and adidas Originals' Unveil "The Art of Explorers" Collaboration
Fashion 

Moncler and adidas Originals' Unveil "The Art of Explorers" Collaboration

Building on the duo’s “The Art of Genius” show at London Fashion Week in February.


From Nibbles to Textiles, Stella McCartney SS24 Celebrates Her Community
Fashion 

From Nibbles to Textiles, Stella McCartney SS24 Celebrates Her Community

The British designer transformed Paris’ Marché Saxe-Breteuil into a sustainable market, exploring her family’s roots in music and fashion.

Take a First Look At Clints' All-New KITA Silhouette
Footwear 

Take a First Look At Clints' All-New KITA Silhouette

A fresh take on the brand’s Patta-co-signed Stepper silhouette.

Duke + Dexter Heads "Way Out West" for FW23
Footwear 

Duke + Dexter Heads "Way Out West" for FW23

Introducing two brand-new silhouettes: the Moby and the Mule.

Palace Re-Engineers Its Favorite nanamica Garments For Heritage-Filled Collaboration
Fashion

Palace Re-Engineers Its Favorite nanamica Garments For Heritage-Filled Collaboration

Palace x nanamica offers GORE-TEX parkas and coach’s jackets, reversible cardigans and more.

Sarah Burton Bids Farewell to Alexander McQueen for SS24
Fashion 

Sarah Burton Bids Farewell to Alexander McQueen for SS24

The British designer ends her 26-year run at the House with an emotional tribute to contemporary women and her loyal team.

More ▾