Kiko Kostadinov SS24 Supplies Utilitarian Uniforms Draped With Vibrancy

British-Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov returned to Paris Fashion Week earlier this year, unveiling his latest menswear offerings at Lycée Henri-IV. Womenswear designers Laura and Deanna Fanning are up next, opening the final day of Paris Fashion Week women’s with an intimate showcase at Palais de Tokyo.

The Fanning twins have managed Kiko Kostadinov’s female line for several years, identifiable with ruffled uniforms crafted through a utilitarian lens. For Spring/Summer 2024, the brand decked the halls of the Parisian museum with blue-tinted school chairs. The collection expanded the duo’s draped ideology, delivering a 31-look offering grounded in fabric manipulation and vibrant patterns.

Silk textiles majestically grasped the lights above, bouncing from dainty tank tops and twisted trousers. Pleated variations arrive in light yellow and green tones, while mobile tops clung from the neck with contrasting details. Fresh techniques were used across hybrid garments and textile co-ords, seeing the latter receive V-shaped cutouts and linear decor. Functional ensembles were reimagined with cinched waistlines and buttoned accents, while fuzzy accessories promoted patchwork styles.

Squared tops with elongated perimeters followed tousled shirting and sheer garments, completing the collection with long-haired robes and mixed-breed baroque footwear.

Speaking to Hypebeast backstage about the collection, Laura and Deanna Fanning say:

“We started the collection with a reference image of patchwork, and initially, it was a really old image of a Sonia Delaunay dress with a satin drape in black and had velvet patchwork in multicolor. We started talking about why this image is so interesting. Why is it so relevant now? Why is it so modern? We began working on textile manipulations with patchwork, and then we thought, oh, how do we use this idea? We started draping panels of fabric in different ways around the body. This led us to look through history and reflect on our heroins throughout fashion design.

I usually shy away from black, but I was really happy with a lot of the crinkle fabrics we had, visco steel, and a lot of sheer. So I think wherever there was black in the collection, it was either really stiff black, like in some of the denim suits. Those silhouettes are really strong, with the texture and fabric catching the light in interesting ways. The fabrications led us to work with dark colors in ways that we haven’t done before.

We presented a new shoe this season and we’re really happy with it. It’s a hybrid, so the toe is like a baroque; you’ve got all the details with the leather on the top; it’s quite minimal, almost like a glove. It looks like glove leather, but it’s not. And then it’s got this rubber sole tooling that we developed in 3D with moulding and textures. I think that the profile is interesting because it’s lifted at the toe and it’s got quite a high arch. It has some ideas that you would find in a sneaker, but it’s also a real hybrid and combines multiple designs.”

Take a closer look at Kiko Kostadinov’s SS24 womenswear collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned for more Paris Fashion Week content on Hypebeast.

Elsewhere, John Galliano’s Maison Margiela crawls into character for SS24.