Dries Van Noten 正式發布 2024 春夏男裝系列
優雅消亡,尋覓重生。
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在 2024 春夏男裝系列中,Dries Van Noten 繼續思考如何重塑當今男士風格——溫柔與力量的結合。強調嚴謹的新剪裁廓形,窄長的比例設計伸展軀體線條。輪廓分明的高腰喇叭褲放大比例。肩部勾勒或是明顯而有力,或是柔和流暢。風衣長度亦得到加長,其獨特的下擺形狀延伸至褲子上形成裝飾。襯衫裙也是本季的重要單品。飛行員夾克採用雕塑感插肩袖,尺寸誇張的派克大衣打破常規體系。通過輕盈的比例和柔和的形狀探索流動質感。透明的薄紗和科技面料自身體上飄逸湧出。鞋靴設計令足部曲線裸露。針織衫上的低圓領與其中若隱若現的皮膚則是親密時刻的詩性演繹。
服飾上的圖案被簡化得寧靜從容。通過分層印刷技術創建的陰影圖案被有意識地不均勻分布,是一種暗藏的簡約美感。工藝依然獨到創新:質樸、天然的材料與珍貴材料結合;人字紋布料與竹節棉和山東綢,以及輕薄的絲綢垂墜混合創立嶄新美學、精緻的鏈帶和鑲有虎眼石的珠寶飾品,閃閃發光的金屬亮片、毛茸茸的紋理涼鞋和飄逸的狩獵襯衫,各類材質的混雜營造本季度服飾的感官豐富性。色彩上採用深邃色調為主:鐵銹色、米色、丁香色、墨水色和橄欖色。杏色的派克大衣點綴有黃水晶和薄荷色。襯衫上的漸變效果是印花而非浸染的。色調的運用精致而微妙。
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