Raf Simons 首登倫敦時裝周發表 2023 春夏系列
叛逆精神探索 80 年代英式龐克、銳舞文化。
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因英國女王伊麗莎白二世逝世而選擇延後發表新作的 Raf Simons,近日正式攜 2023 春夏系列首次進軍倫敦時裝周,登陸當地知名 Techno 夜總會空間 Printworks,在 DJ Clara 3000 的電子音樂下帶來地下派對般的大秀。
關於本季度,Raf Simons 個人表示:「我認為這是我做過的最簡單、最單純的系列。」然而現場氣氛卻大大相反,男女裝並行的系列於架高的伸展台上展示,台下聚集的觀眾則另類喚起 Alexander McQueen 1997 年秋冬系列「It’s a Jungle Out There」那種近在咫尺狂歡的回憶。
服裝項目亦然,用最多變的技巧堆疊出最簡單的系列,透過 80 年代龐克元素、顛覆性扭曲剪裁詮釋銳舞文化崛起之於當代的影響,這回在沉穩的黑白灰色調中加入霓虹配色和波卡圓點等違背規律的暗示,並最大程度地發揮直筒版型,多採上寬下窄的輪廓,將針織衫、襯衫、鏤空網狀背心以連身造型登場,並以緊身效果打理下身,大量露出腿部線條,更與藝術家 Philippe Vanderberg 基金會合作,將其別具童趣效果的塗鴉作品轉化為印花融入系列。
這回 Raf Simons 再用自己的語言探索次文化,大膽演繹同具叛逆精神的英式龐克和 Rave 領域,提供一系列設計簡約卻細節豐富的時裝,讀者不妨瀏覽上方圖輯了解更多。
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