HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧
迎來 30 歲生日的 Pitti Uomo 精彩不斷。
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhk.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-recap-guest-nation-china-pronounce-givenchy-msgm-sterling-ruby-1.jpg?cbr=1&q=90)
與經歷了「小年」的一月份展會相比,數日前在佛羅倫斯落下帷幕的第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 可說是精彩紛呈。從佈滿「Pitti Special Click」主題裝飾的 Fortezza da Basso 主會場,再到分散在城市各個角落,大大小小規模的活動接連不斷,持續至深夜的街區派更讓這座藝術文藝之都再次搖身一變成不夜城。
在慶祝 30 週年的同時,Pitti Uomo 這個六月也迎來了多個極具紀念意義的時刻:迄今最大規模的「Guest Nation」項目「中國嘉賓國」正式登場、PRONOUNCE 成為首個在男裝站辦秀的中國品牌、Givenchy 作為客座設計師發佈 Clare Waight Keller 入主後的首個獨立男裝秀、而藝術家 Sterling Ruby 則終於以時裝設計師的身份「出道」。HYPEBEAST 在此為各位呈上這場為期四天男裝盛會的六大亮點回顧:
Guest Nation China—中國設計新勢力亮相翡冷翠
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-1.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-2.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-3.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-4.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-5.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-6.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-7.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-8.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-9.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-10.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-11.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-12.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-13.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-14.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-15.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-16.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-17.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
自 2010 年起,Pitti Uomo 向全球所有國家開放了一項名為「Guest Nation」的特別項目,每一屆都邀請不同國家參與,於佛羅倫斯展示最具代表性的設計師作品。在去年六月受邀參觀格魯吉亞的「Guest Nation」後,LABELHOOD 便開始著手準備「中國嘉賓國」項目,耗時足足一年,最終與國際品牌咨詢公司 V/Collective 共同甄選出 8ON8、DANSHAN、FFIXXED STUDIOS、PERCY LAU、PRIVATE POLICY、PRONOUNCE、SAMUEL GUÌ YANG、STAFFONLY、THE FLOCKS 及 untitlab™ 涵蓋服裝、配件、鞋履不同範疇的十組設計師,於佛羅倫斯呈現 2020 春夏系列。這也是 Pitti Uomo 迄今規模最大的一次中國設計師集體亮相,其中 PRONOUNCE 成為首個在該男裝展舉辦時裝秀的中國品牌,而以女裝設計見長的 SAMUEL GUÌ YANG 也藉著這個機會正式進軍男裝領域。
「我的初衷是想呈現一個相對多元的中國設計男裝視野,並且盡可能對國際來說是新的。」LABELHOOD 創辦人 Tasha 談及這次設計師陣容的選擇,並表示在為期四天的展示和交流中獲得了超乎期待的反饋:意大利著名 Showroom 創辦人 Ricchardo Grassi 就認為這些設計師都已經為國際市場做好了充足準備,而 Pitti Immagine 首席執行官 Raffaello Napoleone 也鼓勵中國設計師要在 Pitti Uomo 持續發生。「所以我們已經開始計劃下一季有什麼新的可能呈現中國男裝的另一面。」Tasha 透露了下一步的計劃。
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-18.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-19.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-20.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-21.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-22.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-guest-nation-china-23.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/Hypebeast
在「Guest Nation China」進行期間,中國新銳時尚攝影師 Leslie Zhang Jiacheng 也在以「中國紅」為主調的活動現場舉辦名為「In This Moment」的攝影個展,擔任策展人資深媒體人崔丹更與團隊推出了雜誌《Guest Nation Book》,以視覺和文字的方式呈現中國的「此刻」。
而在「Guest Nation China」正式開幕之前,HYPEBEAST 也特別以這十個設計師品牌的作品為主角打造了一組造型特輯,可點擊這裡查看。
PRONOUNCE—從陶俑挖掘的過程探討「眾生相」
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-1.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Zheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-2.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-3.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-4.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-5.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-6.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-7.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-8.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-9.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-10.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-11.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-12.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-13.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-14.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-15.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Zheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-16.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-17.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-18.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-19.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-20.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-21.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-22.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-23.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-24.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-25.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
對於「眾生相」概念的持續性探討,PRONOUNCE 2020 春夏系列以「兵馬俑」為靈感,服裝作媒介來呈現。「上億張面孔的宏大性帶來一種蒼茫感與每個人身體獨立個體的鮮活和生動感。」在前往 Pitti Uomo 之前,李雨山與周俊兩位設計師已先為我們透露以「A FRESH DIG」為名的新一季是關於「當下」的回饋和對「芸芸眾生」的思考,不過秀後他們也強調靈感不僅僅是來自於兵馬俑的「千人千面」,更多的是挖掘團隊在過程中的堅持與鑽研。因此在這個系列中,我們可以看到陶俑氧化前的彩繪得到「還原」,以鮮豔的色調貫穿始終;挖掘過程所使用的防護網亦被運用其中,由蒙古族藝人手工針織打造,與出現在襯衫、外套、緊身上衣和牛仔褲上的兵馬俑印花形成堅強卻又脆弱的衝突美感。除了延續當代中山裝和手工打磨水洗牛仔等品牌標誌性元素外,PRONOUNCE 今季還採用來自蘇州的迷你竹繡編織技巧,高達 1600 小時工時的珠繡與蘇繡賦予了整個系列豐富細膩的肌理層次。
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-26.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-27.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-28.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
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Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
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Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-31.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-32.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-pronounce-33.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Elio Cheng/HYPEBEAST
在發佈會上,PRONOUNCE 同時展示了重新詮釋的 Converse Jack Purcell 系列。設計上與服裝的概念完美呼應,挖掘過程中的泥土、防護網以及毛刷等元素都被巧妙運用到這雙經典鞋款之上,「而金屬材質的使用則代表著兵馬俑被組裝成形後的堅不可摧。」李雨山解釋道。PRONOUNCE 通過擅長的手工技巧與硬軟材料的結合,與 Converse Jack Purcell 完成了一次趣味且充滿視覺衝擊的化學碰撞。
GIVENCHY—脈衝已至
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-0.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-2.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-5.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-7.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-8.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-10.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-11.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-12.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-13.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-16.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-17.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-18.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-19.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-20.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-21.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-22.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-23.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-24.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-25.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-26.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fhypebeast.com%2Fimage%2F2019%2F06%2Fgivenchy-spring-summer-2020-pitti-backstage-27.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
隱於佛羅倫斯山間,伊莉莎白女王二世造訪過三次、法國 19 世紀浪漫主義作家「大仲馬」Alexandre Dumas 曾居住過的 Villa Palmieri 成為 Clare Waight Keller 入主 Givenchy 後首個獨立男裝秀的舉辦地。夢幻般的宏偉莊園凸顯著 Givenchy 作為一個奢侈時裝屋應有的氣派,古典主義視覺與新派藝術風格伴隨脈衝電波聲,在花園迷宮中交替湧現。
韓國的街頭文化成為藝術總監 Waight Keller 今季一個來源,「我發現韓國充滿著活力,尤其在首爾,年輕人們對時尚有著一絲不苟的態度。」這些年輕活力元素經由 Waight Keller 之手被轉換到以剪裁西裝為主的新系列中,如藍、紅、黃、粉、綠等輕快的色彩、裝飾在腰間的金屬鏈條、運動感強烈的緊身單車上衣、閃閃發光和輕盈飄逸的科技面料以及撞色襪套式球鞋。哥特風格書寫的「Fleurs du Mal」被分割成抽象的圖案,而品牌創始人 Hubert de Givenchy 對於奢華的喜愛亦在精緻優雅的緹花中得到重生。Waight Keller 以獨有設計風格融合新舊世界的美學概念,展現出 Givenchy 男性溫文爾雅的陽剛之氣。此外,在發佈會上亮相的 Onitsuka Tiger 聯乘鞋款也成為一大驚喜亮點。
Sterling Ruby—多了一個「設計師」身份的藝術家
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-sterling-ruby-1.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-sterling-ruby-2.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
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Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-sterling-ruby-15.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-sterling-ruby-16.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-sterling-ruby-17.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-sterling-ruby-18.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-sterling-ruby-19.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-sterling-ruby-20.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-sterling-ruby-21.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-sterling-ruby-22.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Paul Jeong/Hypebeast
從比利時設計師 Raf Simons 同名品牌,再到其掌舵過的 Dior 和 Calvin Klein,Sterling Ruby 早已是時裝界一個再讓人熟悉不過的名字,但他卻一直沒有真正以設計師的身份出現。因此當這位藝術家宣佈推出個人品牌 S.R. STUDIO. LA. CA.,並作為特邀設計師於 Pitti Uomo 96 發佈首個系列時,便迅速引起了大家期待和議論。Sterling Ruby 表示 Pitti Uomo 提供了一個完美的機會,讓他可以實現一個近十年來在工作室秘密探索的項目。S.R. STUDIO. LA. CA. 首秀選擇在毗鄰佛羅倫薩著名波波里花園的 La Pagliere 進行,白色煙霧與黃色燈光為這個曾用於儲存牲畜乾草的倉庫蒙上了一層專屬於 Sterling Ruby 的氛圍,Raf Simons 與 Virgil Abloh 在巴黎男裝周開幕之際更親自前來為這場時裝首秀助陣。
S.R. STUDIO. LA. CA. 首個系列由四個部分組成,包括同名主線、僅限量 50 件的 ED. 50、運用 Sterling Ruby Studio 手工面料打造的 SOTO 以及 Ruby 親自打造、每件都獨一無二的 UNIQUE。這四條支線以一種民主的方式組成整個系列,不分層次等級。正如我們對 Sterling Ruby 期待,視覺強烈的圖案和拼貼成為整個系列的主角,其中不少設計更讓人時不時與其過往和 Raf Simons 的合作聯想到一起。Sterling Ruby 從重金屬和朋克專輯封面、孟諾教派和門諾教派的服裝汲取靈感,並結合了製作、縫補、拼貼這些源自民間的技藝,將簽名式的藝術風格呈現到服裝之上。不同服裝類型和面料重量的組合在這個系列中也被視為一種拼貼形式,這是 Sterling Ruby 創作方式於不同媒介上的體現;而來自西岸牛仔布行業的多重染色、洗滌、漂洗、破壞和做舊等處理方式亦為服裝留下獨特的痕跡,改變了外觀和纖維本身。Sterling Ruby 將敘事融入到織物中,這個系列彷彿就是一張自傳式的圖表,匯集了他的生活、影響、概念、現實和幻想。
Salvatore Ferragamo—榮歸故里
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-1.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-2.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-3.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-4.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-6.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-7.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-8.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-9.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-11.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-12.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-13.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-14.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-15.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-16.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-18.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-20.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-salvatore-ferragamo-22.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Salvatore Ferragamo
Salvatore Ferragamo 回歸故鄉後直接「接管」著名的領主廣場舉辦 2020 春夏系列發佈會,這是一個歷史優秀的佛羅倫斯品牌所特有的權利。古老的建築、雕塑和噴泉都被當作背景,鏡面座椅中所折射出的是 Paul Andrew 擔任創意總監首個男裝系列呈現的年輕面貌。
Andrew 旨在打破男裝的刻板陳規,自由表達男性的陽剛特質。因此他在傳統男裝格調的基礎上融入了彰顯青春活力的設計理念,如取代了經典休閒西裝的輕質 Parka 和被賦予實用運動功能的西裝外套,並在豐富的大地色調和自然色澤上飾以鮮豔的顏色,同時還運用了大量的新興面料。作為 Ferragamo 品牌向來的重點,新系列的鞋履靈感來自經典鞋履設計與當地的托斯卡納工匠,且融入了考究的編織工藝和女裝中的樹葉纖維刺繡。而分離式厚底帆布便鞋,以及從 1951 年 Salvatore 推出的 Kimo 鞋款中汲取靈感打造的可替換系帶麂皮靴式涼鞋,則是 Andrew 將精湛工藝與先進科技相結合的代表之作。當然,Ferragamo 的革新絕非只針對年輕市場,英國平面設計大師 Peter Saville 就以模特身份客串進行了一番演繹。
MSGM—發生在體育館內的夏日泳池派對
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-1.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Giovanni Giannoni
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-2.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Giovanni Giannoni
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-3.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Giovanni Giannoni
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-4.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Giovanni Giannoni
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-5.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Vanni Bassetti
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-6.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Vanni Bassetti
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-7.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Vanni Bassetti
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-8.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Vanni Bassetti
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-9.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Vanni Bassetti
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-10.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Vanni Bassetti
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-11.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Vanni Bassetti
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-12.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Vanni Bassetti
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-13.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Vanni Bassetti
![HYPEBEAST 直擊-第 96 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展六大亮點回顧](https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2F%2Fcn.hypebeast.com%2Ffiles%2F2019%2F06%2Fpitti-uomo-96-msgm-14.jpg?w=1260&format=jpeg&cbr=1&q=90&fit=max)
Vanni Bassetti
六年前參加 Pitti Uomo 讓險被關閉的 MSGM 男裝線「起死回生」,踏著至今依舊高漲的街頭和運動熱潮,這個意大利品牌迎來了創立的第一個十年,而佛羅倫斯無疑成為慶祝這一里程碑時刻的最佳地方。眾所周知,這座文藝古都最不缺的是各種極具歷史意義的場所,而 MSGM 創辦人及創意總監 Massimo Giorgetti 則決定忠於品牌的 DNA,「反其道而行」地選擇了 Mandela Forum 室內體育館作為十年慶祝大秀的舉辦地,更通過燈光、投影和音樂打造出一場充滿年輕能量的「夏日泳池派對」。
MSGM 2020 春夏系列再次體現著 Massimo Giorgetti 作為一個「海邊人」輕鬆慵懶享受生活的態度。「泳池」邊上模特們身穿的服飾擁有著一切夏日應有的元素:寬鬆和運動剪裁、螢光和鮮明色系、以及花朵、Bandana、波光和扎染印花。豹紋圖案通過不同色調的組合製造出強烈的對比,由藝術家 Norbert Bisky 創作的「陽光浴」男子印花成為系列一大視覺焦點;就連西裝,在插畫拼貼和手繪圖案的點綴下,亦被注入了男孩氣息。伴隨「NEVER LOOK BACK IT’S ALL AHEAD」的標語,MSGM 和 Massimo Giorgetti 已在準備迎接下一個十年。