重視公平貿易的重製設計-Children of the discordance 2017 春夏系列
在買新衣的同時,你所作出的決定將影響全球數以億計勞工的命運。
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全球服裝市場需求甚大,加上網絡發展迅速,人們對款式的追求過急,令衣飾品產量過盛,受影響的數以億計人,不少更為被邊緣化的生產者及勞工。而日本設計師志鎌英明,則把勞工及生產者的利益、生計一拼考慮。在 2011 年成立品牌 Children of the discordance 以來,致力於提倡「公平貿易」原則的地區及部落,以更公平的貿易條件,在當地生產者中搜集材料及尋求製工。其中志鎌英明於如墨西哥薩帕塔及非洲馬賽遊牧民族,又或者到巴勒斯坦中聘用難民營婦女的布料廠房取材,在這些保留傳統文化手藝地區,去進行取材及部分工序,一方面讓作品更添復古味道,又一方面照顧當地人物。
結果在 Children of the discordance 的作品上,混合了志鎌英明在各地遊歷的人文體驗,運用於設計中。對於過盛生產,近年時裝業亦出現不少以「重製」為主題的品牌,採用舊有民族服飾、古老布料來拼搭設計,減少對環境的損耗。所以在 2014 年,志鎌英明邀請了藝術家 Naoto Yoshida 合作,擴展其「重製」部分,讓 Children of the discordance 的品牌理念不止於勞工福利問題,及擴展至關注全球環境的概念。
到 2017 年春夏季作品中,整體輪廓更見完整。過往數季最為人津津樂道的款式,如 Naoto Yoshida 合作打造的 Patch Denim,將配襯上衣如 Vintage Patch Anorak、Bandana Anarchy Shirt 等,又或是印度拉賈斯坦邦取材布料所製的 Coach Jacket 及 Pullover,把質感度高之面料與古著元素混合,搭出上闊下窄之造型,流露出工藝感的同時不會過於累贅。如此有意思的品牌,下年將會擴展至更多亞洲選物店,有興趣的朋友,不妨留意 Children of the discordance 的分銷點更新。