Rick Owens 2016 秋冬系列
「人肉背包」瘋狂後的冷靜。
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今日,Rick Owens 於巴黎時裝周上發佈了 2016 秋冬系列。相比起 2016 春夏系列「人肉背包」設計理念,Rick Owens 此番倒是收斂不少。秀場佈置與其在巴黎的住所風格極為相似,潦生、廢棄感充斥著每一個角落。服飾設計方面,Rick Owens 依舊在秩序與混亂之間找尋著切入點,混沌、缺陷與恐懼等詞語成為 Owens 美學精髓本質。除了暗黑精神靈魂,他的設計不為迎合任何人。服飾廓形上,性別與風格界限依舊模糊,各式 oversize 剪裁無袖上衣、裙褲可謂是 Rick Owens 系列中的「常規節目」,並沒有給人太大驚喜。倒是鮮有的「基本款」Blazer 夾克、風衣、毛領皮衣出現在 Rick Owens 秀場上,讓公眾著實驚訝許多。此外,流漆圖案裝飾貫穿於多款上裝及下裝中,彰顯出幾分詭異的魔幻色彩。最後,丹寧布成為與皮革、粗呢「分庭抗禮」的面料選擇,一定程度上「稀釋」了濃郁的部落、宗教及暗黑風格美感。