Raf Simons 2016 秋冬系列
「我堅持貫徹美學宗旨,但一點怪異、一點黑暗、一點錯失,組合出的結果相當有趣。」
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Raf Simons 發佈於 Dior 最後一季作品後,離開時裝巨頭的懷抱,就如當年 Martin Margiela 一樣,主力專注個人品牌之發展,真真正正跳出框架以外實現自己天馬行空的風格。在此不用重述 Raf Simons 對街頭時裝的影響,在最新的 2016 秋冬季度上,設計師非如其他品牌留在軍事、復古、打破性別等層面,而採取了學園風格作主題。先以 Oversize Deconstructed Sweater 打頭陣,配上學院字體元素,就像向大眾說明,Raf Simons 停下繁複工作,回顧過往作品後,重新由基本上路的新開始。中段把這批 Sweater 配襯在不同的外套款式上,把破損細節化為特色,表達不平衡的對比美學。Simons 以 Nightmares and Dreams 作為今次的主題,「我堅持貫徹美學宗旨,但一點怪異、一點黑暗、一點錯失,組合出的結果相當有趣。」,不單在設計上表達出混沌的狀態,Simons 的靈感來源亦相當零碎,系列秀上,Raf Simons 以作曲家 Angelo Badalamenti 與 David Lynch 的一段對話取代背景音樂,作為表達自己的設計構思,「一些地方、景點、電影名稱、字眼如 “The Boy Scout”、“Red Americana / Flemish blue” 都是我的靈感。」 。