HB Forecast - 2016 Fashion Key Words #01: 闊丈
時尚配襯新緯度﹣闊丈之流儀
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2016 春夏時裝系列早在上月已經陸續開催,在今回 HB Forecast 欄目中,我們將為大家抽絲剝繭,由歐美高端時裝舞台到日系一、二線之出品甚至人氣 Street Fashion 中,預測今年春夏流行元素之端倪,在配搭與入手上,提供一點指引,各位時裝愛好者一同研究吧!
相信大家在 HYPEBEAST 看得最多的褲款莫過於 Jogger Pant,修腳剪裁、束腳之設定,成為展示腳下潮鞋名物之利器,甚至連直腳褲都要「Pin﹣Roll」成為束腳設定,無疑成為街頭時裝的 Essential。所為物極必反,一、兩年前,Hi-Fashion 已經開始大玩 A-Shape 剪裁,闊褲加持,日本街拍中不少潮人亦開始改穿 Loose Fit 配搭方式,可惜在中港台只見女生跟隨韓風穿搭闊褲,Nike 襪子加 Sneaker 片地開花,男生們似乎無動於衷。畢竟闊身剪裁配襯門襤相當高,個子矮小或者偏肥實在難以 Carry,分分鐘自曝其短,新手上路,儘量避免選擇水桶形剪裁,反而 Tapered Cut 和 Cropped Pants 之設定最容易入手。
在選擇上,今季的闊丈除了 DIGAWEL、DISCOVERED、FACTOTUM 等日系時裝每季之定番外,今季選擇特別多,甚至連 THOM BROWNE 的簽名式 7 分丈都應為「日和」之主題都換上闊身的剪裁;單以闊度來說,Sasquatchfabrix.和 Needles 屬最正宗的示範,前者展示出 A-Shape 剪裁之奧義,後者更兼承了美式復古之氛圍;而論配襯性,DIGAWEL、Trove 都是入門級的選擇。此外,不少古著牛仔褲或工裝都保持著舊有寬闊的剪裁,是闊丈另類的代替品。有興趣的朋友不妨參考以下各大時裝周外型人們的示範吧。