Ornamental Conifer x Levi's Eureka Lab 2015 カプセルコレクションの作業工程にフォーカス

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"My vision in regards to the Levi's project is a direct reflection of where my head is at

"My vision in regards to the Levi's project is a direct reflection of where my head is at aesthetically right now."

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"I have been exploring repeat patterns and ornamentation lately and envisioned the final piece to

"I have been exploring repeat patterns and ornamentation lately and envisioned the final piece to be elaborate, over the top, super hype and above all, eye catching."

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"I wanted the paint to stain the fabric, so that in the long run, once it was stonewashed back it

"I wanted the paint to stain the fabric, so that in the long run, once it was stonewashed back it would leave a ghost pattern."

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"I used acrylic paint, sometimes mixing it with a fabric medium to act as a binder with the [denim]

"I used acrylic paint, sometimes mixing it with a fabric medium to act as a binder with the [denim] fibers."

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"When I applied the paint it really needed to be stippled deep into the weave in order to withstand

"When I applied the paint it really needed to be stippled deep into the weave in order to withstand the stone washing treatment I had in mind."

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Ornamental Conifer's denim arrives at the Levi's Eureka Lab in San Francisco, CA.

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"I specified that the panels I painted should be cut and sewn regardless of where the designs were

"I specified that the panels I painted should be cut and sewn regardless of where the designs were painted. That way, the seams would not match, the lettering or symbols would not join, [but] rather jar against each other, complimenting each other as abstract forms rather than individual subjects."

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The Eureka Lab's tailors transform the custom denim into iconic Levi's product.

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Tailors sew in the unmistakable Levi's leather back patch.

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Discussing the final design details with Levi's Head of Global Design, Jonathan Cheung.

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Eureka Lab's stamp of approval.

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The unwashed, fully-assembled Levi's Trucker Jacket and 501® jeans.

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The custom stonewash "recipe" for Ornamental Conifer.

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The stone washing begins.

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"The pieces turned out exactly how I wanted them. Thanks to the team at Eureka, who clearly know

"The pieces turned out exactly how I wanted them. Thanks to the team at Eureka, who clearly know their shit when it comes to denim. It was a pleasure and an honor to work with such a legit denim brand such as Levi's."

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"I'm stoked on how the final pieces turned out. It's like a piece of my brain made into clothes."

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2013年、アメリカ・サンフランシスコにある〈Levi’s〉本社のすぐ近くに設立された『Eureka Lab』は、デニムのスペシャリストたちが現代のテクノロジーを駆使して現行のシルエットを染め上げ、デニムを “新たな領域へと押し上げる” 特別なラボである。その作業のクオリティはいかなるデニムメーカーも凌駕し、次々と新作をリリースしていく。

世界的に注目を集めた “Commuter Collection” もその1つだが、今シーズンはイギリスの人気ペインターで “Ornamental Conifer” として知られる「Nicolai Sclater」とタッグを組み、クリエイティブなコレクションを展開。彼はまるで少年がノートの縁に落書きをするかのように、大胆かつ純粋無垢にグラフィックを描くアーティストで、スケートボードや、Tシャツ、ヘルメット、レザージャケットなど、Nicolaiにとっては全てがキャンバスとなる。『Eureka Lab』に到着するとすぐに、彼はロール状にされた〈Levi’s〉のホワイトデニムを開き、ドローイングを開始。真っさらだったデニムがプレイフルなプリントで埋め尽くされていき、瞬く間にオリジナルテキスタイルが完成した。テキスタイルが仕上がると、次は『Eureka Lab』の職人たちがそのファブリックをカッティングし、〈Levi’s〉のシグネチャーであるトラッカージャケットと「501」のジーンズの製作へと移行。〈Levi’s〉のグローバルデザインチーフである「Jonathan Cheung」監督のもと、リベットの留め方やデザインのディテールなどに細かな指示を与えていく。そして、〈Levi’s〉のレザーパッチが縫い付けられた後に、ストーンウォッシュをかけることで、遂にヴィンテージライクな唯一無二のプロダクトが完成した。作業工程を撮影した貴重な写真を、この機会に是非チェックしていただきたい。

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