Balenciaga 2023 冬季系列大秀正式登場

「時尚不能再被視為娛樂。」

Fashion 時裝
2,974 Hypes

Balenciaga 正式於巴黎時裝周展示全新 2023 冬季系列大秀,本季選址於一處極簡主義風格的空間內發表,透過自然純白色系帆布質感的織物包裹,令簡約的環境更加營造靜謐的氛圍。

而系列中能夠看到,通過高級剪裁對長褲進行解構重塑,將褲腰倒轉挪至全新位置成為上衣的下擺或褲管,另有被設計為雙層的長褲,在原本的褲腿上縫製懸掛著另一條長褲,以上設計項目也體現在一些丹寧、皮革類與棉質外套等經典單品上。

接著拉鍊連帽衫、機車夾克、運動服和鋪棉外套的內襯中縫入了充氣的填充物,將整體結構重塑,在視覺上轉變了身體的輪廓尺度;真絲喬其紗禮服裙運用垂褶或縮褶設計,以不對稱造型營造出全新量感;用皮革和輕質織物打造的花卉印花 Plissé 褶襇連衣裙,動物紋印花皮革風衣,以及小號收身款平織或立絨運動服以嶄新面貌重現,不僅著重描繪了肩部線條,更使整體造型呈現出立體鮮明的圓潤觀感。

晚裝廓形的部分是從 Balenciaga 高級訂製系列中汲取靈感,及地禮服用各種珍貴質料精心縫製,鑲嵌著閃亮的珠片和水晶珠、層層疊疊的流蘇串珠、耀眼奪目的紗線、精緻的蕾絲刺繡,以及用手工打造的矽質或天鵝絨材質的水滴形裝飾,腰間則系以別致的緞帶蝴蝶結。

此外,本系列還推出 Huge 和新款 Crush 包款,均採用柔軟皮革製成。以機車越野鞋為靈感設計的 Biker 靴子,飾以極限運動元素,既有拼接也有單色樣式。Anatomic 靴子用管狀結構針織布或氨綸面料製成,可監測足底曲率和腳趾位置。

此外在後台時,Demna 也特別解釋了 2023 冬季系列,以下附上訪問原文。

Addressing the crowd of international press, Demna said:

“I really tried my best to make it as clear as possible [to show] why I am a designer at this House and what I stand for. As a creative, that was my mission with this show. Desirability is the second part of it, but I wanted to express myself in a way that was very clear, [to show] the creative being that I am.”

Explaining the inflatable leather jacket:

“The inflatable structure is inside and it comes with a little pump for those fashion-forward customers who would want it, otherwise you can just deflate it. But it is to protect the body, the vital parts of the body.”

Explaining the hourglass figures and shapes of the jersey clothing:

“I’ve never seen pieces, like equestrian clothing, as a protection garment. When I saw the silhouette it reminded me of hourglasses, which is a silhouette we’ve done for quite a while. In profile, it looked like a cocoon, so they’re two very important silhouettes for me and for Balenciaga in one garment. I was really interested in researching that and putting it into different types of [pieces], like a biker jacket and also a T-shirt.

This was also the first collection without a logo on it. My idea was to really purify, then edit it to the point where it speaks for itself, for everything I do here.”

Addressing the recent controversy:

“I began making [this collection] before [the controversy], in October. Obviously, the situation impacted my way of working — this is how the tailoring, deconstructed and reconstructed, was born by me directly working on it. The idea to make this about clothes, 100%, was there before. The situation just confirmed to me that this was the right direction.”

Explaining why he does not want to see fashion as entertainment:

“It was after a couple of our last shows that were a lot about the setting, the show, the effect and concept of the set. But unfortunately — starting from the snow show — I felt a little bit frustrated because I felt like I had betrayed my true value of actually making clothes. People wouldn’t see the clothes anymore, they would see the set design and talk about that, and that was really frustrating for me. The idea was to move away from that and go to square one, which is making clothes and making that the focus. Over the last couple of months, it’s felt like this is exactly what I was meant to do.”

In answer to the question, “Is this going to continue to be your process moving forward?”, Demna said:

“Definitely. But going forward, moving forward in a more profound way, I think, when it comes to dressmaking and putting it in the spotlight, rather than making a performance out of it.”

Describing the difference between couture and ready-to-wear:

“I don’t want to confuse couture with ready-to-wear because making [the two] is very, very different. It would be hypocritical of me to put couture in ready-to-wear, I want to keep it separate. Couture is a lot about heritage and how to modernize it; in ready-to-wear, there is this part of my aesthetic that people don’t really know of me. The end of this show as ‘evening,’ somewhat romantic and classic, but still twisted in some way that makes it more modern. I wanted to include this in the show because I wanted to show all the facets of who I am as a designer — there is also this part of lace and embroideries that is not made in a couture way, these are industrialize-able garments. It’s a very different niche in ready-to-wear that I want to work more and more on.”

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