Stefan Cooke 2022 秋季系列大秀正式登場
戲劇化風格隱含高級技術層面。
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由 Stefan Cooke 和 Jake Burt 雙人執掌設計的新銳品牌 Stefan Cooke,於倫敦時裝週首次亮相 2022 秋季男裝大秀,今番兩人藉參觀服裝歷史博物館汲取靈感,透過高技術層面重造戲劇化系列。
這回加入許多有趣的嘗試,兩人在一本古老的紡織書籍中讀到一種繩索技術,通過在織物之間放置繩索並在周圍刺繡以產生三維效果,即發揮實驗精神,製作視覺陷阱(Trompe-L’œil)效果的丹寧夾克;品牌標誌性鏤空上衣,維持孔洞形狀之餘亦以多層次堆疊和鮮豔配色再創經典;除此之外,還有靈感來自中世紀戰袍的金屬質感鍊圈上衣,透出墊肩的細節,以及腰間無法忽視的芭蕾極短裙,皆彰顯戲劇張力。然而,該系列最有趣的部分並非上述,也非僅有領子和門襟的 Polo 衫——儘管這些元素令人眼睛一亮,務必留意的則是年輕導向的剪裁,還有單品間穿插的高級技術。
其中一件看似簡單的白襯衫,其實隱藏了浮雕細節在褶皺中,Stefan Cooke 說道:「我們已經嘗試了四個季度,整個團隊花了一周的時間才完成一件襯衫,每個人都一邊顫抖一邊試圖讓它變得完美。」Jake Burt 補充:「因為如果搞砸了,我們就必須重新開始。」
在不了解製作技巧下或許會認定其為單純漂亮而已,但兩人為突破工藝技術而下的工夫著實令人驚艷,有興趣的讀者不妨瀏覽上方圖輯。
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