JIL SANDER 於 Pitti Uomo 97 發佈 2020 秋冬系列
在新聖母瑪利亞教堂中呈現的極簡主義。
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作為第 97 屆 Pitti Uomo 男裝展的客座設計師品牌,JIL SANDER 於佛羅倫斯的新聖母瑪利亞教堂舉辦了 2020 秋冬大秀。在續寫 JIL SANDER 向來標誌性的低調極簡主義風格同時,夫妻檔創意總監 Luicie 和 Luke Meier 通過多種元素的注入,以及對於手工藝的注重,在橙色康乃馨背景中呈現了又一個極具凝聚力的新系列。
精準的剪裁營造出俐落的線條感,細節上的調整創造了嶄新的輪廓。可拆卸的絲綢衣領和雙層羊絨翻領柔化西裝和大衣的硬朗感,流蘇的運用賦予了些許遊牧自由氣息;機車夾克的比例得到延伸,置於柔軟的羊絨大衣之下;重新經過構想、裝飾有毛邊的 Shetland 羊毛也顯得更加輕快。兩位設計師對於大自然的熱愛在這個系列中仍舊得到體現,高原沙漠花卉和動物被以水彩印花的方式轉換到襯衫和大衣的絲綢內裡上,以及如點綴在領口的老鷹造型手工銀飾。配飾上還有貫穿始終的金屬徽章,並與三角形的郵差包、扁平幾何手提袋、綴以手工繩結的腰包,以及粗獷的登山靴和軍靴構成整體造型。即便糅合了多種元素,但依舊保留了品牌的極簡精神,這就是 Luicie 和 Luke Meier 手中的 JIL SANDER 令人驚艷之處。