Marni 2018 春夏系列
Francesco Risso 準備了一場浪漫的逃離。
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提起意大利時裝屋 Marni,腦海不禁浮現浪漫、文藝、時髦與撞色這些標誌性的關鍵詞。從早前在米蘭發佈的 2018 男裝系列看來,Consuelo Castiglioni 多年來所塑造的形象在新一任創意總監 Francesco Risso 接手後仍得以延續。在第二個男裝系列中,Risso 似乎精心準備了一場逃離,貫穿始終的帆船圖案暗藏著這一訊息。漸變色條紋與吊襠設計的加入賦予了剪裁得體西服年輕化的面貌,隨性的襯衫下擺和領帶繫法是一種灑脫的象徵;頗具 70 年代感的多彩菱格紋針織衫和 Polo 在此悄悄進行一次跨時代的碰撞;數件帶有解構意味和層次感的襯衫成為了系列的一大亮點,不規則和插畫拼貼彰顯著這位設計師童趣怪誕的一面。整個系列瀰漫著一種自由和解脫的氣息,Francesco Risso 打造的仍是實穿的時裝,但他可不那麼墨守陳規。