Riccardo Tisci 接受《WWD》專訪談及男裝設計生涯
意大利設計師 Riccardo Tisci
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意大利設計師 Riccardo Tisci 是當今時尚圈中最具影響力的設計師之一,他不僅以創意總監的身份讓法國老牌時裝屋 Givenchy 起死回生,並爲品牌創造了巨大的商業價值,更憑借著獨到的審美理念引領了一波時尚與街頭混搭的 Hi-Street 熱潮。爲了慶祝這位天才設計師在 Givenchy 的第十個年頭,最近時尚網站《WWD》便請來 Tisci 接受訪問,深入探討了諸多熱點話題,包括時尚領域的中性設計、自己的男裝設計生涯與創作缪斯,以及 Instagram 粉絲等等,下面便帶來此次訪談的節選內容,感興趣的朋友不妨點擊這裏閱讀完整內容。
You’ve pushed gender boundaries in men’s wear. Do you think it’s a sign of dynamism in men’s wear?
I think it’s fantastic. Over the last few years, there’s more and more freedom and less of a gulf between women and men, which is great. Women, they have more power, which I love. I’m very feminist, and men as well have less paranoias. There are now fewer taboos in the men’s world. When you go into straight clubs or to the gym, you can find straight men putting together looks that are strong and bold, which I love. Also, men today are taking care of themselves more.
Do you have any male muses, as Italian model Mariacarla Boscono seems to be for women’s? For example, you’ve been dressing Jared Leto, including for the Oscars.
It’s hard to find a Mariacarla in the men’s world because she’s so strong and so unique. But I’ve got a lot of men around me and I really like the way they put clothes together, including people on my design team. I really like the way Matthew Barney dresses, and then, of course, Antony Hegarty is really inspiring for me.