Martine Rose x #BEENTRILL# 2015 秋冬系列

街頭品牌 #BEENTRILL# 的一舉一動都牽動著時尚圈的神經，而近日更找來倫敦知名男裝設計師 Martine Rose 為其 2015 年秋冬系列出謀劃策。新系列將囊括服裝、音樂和藝術等多方面，主題方面亦會沿用 Martine 現代都市融合傳統輪廓的風格，其中不乏擁有天才 Mark E. Smith 與 Robert Mapplethorpe 式類型的推出，這與其深受倫敦早期狂野派對、光頭黨嬉皮以及 Sado/Masochism 亞文化的影響不無關係。「我真的想要製造一些美麗而有趣的…我覺得這些應該在事情不對的時候才會發生。」在接受《Dazed & Confused》訪問時她如是說，「通過創作該係列產品我能更好地回顧自己曾經的印記。」了解更多的內容敬請閱覽下方的採訪摘錄。

How did you approach this collection?
It was an organic conversation with #BEENTRILL# – we were introduced by Kim Jones, and started speaking about music, and our references and starting points all seemed to be the same. We were looking at the crusty scene, which was a big influence for me for AW 14 – that sort of ‘raver in a field’ silhouette. The collection has that feeling about it, but it feels more polished and very sportswear. It’s a sporty crusty ravey type vibe!

Patches seem to be something that you return to…
Patches are so…unintentional, they aren’t something I try to own or that I try to bring in each season, but it’s a way that I communicate… they are a way of showing your colours. I was a competitive swimmer until I was a teenager, so we had these swimming costumes that were completely covered in badges, almost like an armour – I’m quite obsessed with the idea of achievements. I like things that don’t necessarily fit together, when there’s something a bit jarring. So sometimes if there is a coherence to the look, adding a few badges that just say odd things can throw it off.

It’s interesting that as a designer, you’re so willing to look back into your own archive when there can be so much pressure to create something new.
I think designers need to get the balance right. I think it’s our job to do a little bit of both, to acknowledge the past and at the same time try and communicate it in a new way. I think that the idea that we’re going to do something new is a fantasy really. At the end of the day the trousers have got to have two legs and the top – there are certain things that we have to abide by. I guess I’m a nostalgic person, and it always comes back to influences that I’ve experienced or that feel like a memory to me, but innovation has to be mixed with that.

How did you approach the lookbook?
The style is all really new, I haven’t shot images like these before, because it’s outside. Even though the silhouette feels familiar and the fabrications feel familiar, the whole collaboration feels really new. It was street cast and again, this boy is just beautiful – oddly beautiful. He really captured the feeling of the collection, of a slightly grown out skinhead, raver person.