Saint Laurent Summer 2027 Menswear Emerges From the Fog
Anthony Vaccarello crafts a collection centered entirely on restraint and omission, using Fujiko Nakaya’s immersive installation as an active participant to evoke the luxury of absence.
Summary
Saint Laurent debuted its Summer 2027 Menswear collection inside Fujiko Nakaya’s immersive fog installation.
Anthony Vaccarello emphasized restraint through high-cut three-button tailoring and bare-skin waistcoats.
Liquid gold metallic finishes transformed utilitarian staples like suits and belted trench coats.
At Paris Fashion Week, Saint Laurent presented its Summer 2027 Menswear collection under Anthony Vaccarello’s direction, a study in restraint as seduction. Turning away from fashion’s contemporary demand for constant drama and attention, the collection operates on the philosophy that refusal and omission are the truest catalysts for desire. This narrative was seamlessly integrated into the presentation’s environment, as models moved through artist Fujiko Nakaya‘s an immersive fog installation, “Cloud #07156.”
Over a sixteen-minute choreographed performance, the cast emerged and dissolved within a luminous landscape of thick white mist, transforming the environment into an active participant in the collection’s storyline. To anchor this mood of quiet composure, Vaccarello looked toward historical and cultural figures celebrated for making restraint a virtue, including author Marguerite Duras, legendary style icon Tina Chow and the fictionally complex Mr. Ripley.
Across 40 looks, the designer proposed tailoring that redefined discernment: a three‑button jacket cut higher on the body, paired with narrow flat‑front or softly pleated trousers. Familiar archetypes such as the waistcoat and ribbed V‑neck sweater were elevated through precision and proportion, while athletic blousons appeared unexpectedly delicate in technical taffeta.
Footwear follows an equally unconventional path, taking the form of sculpted, sheer and high-gloss shoes that catch the ambient light – and fittingly also fog up – as models cut through the mist. The house also introduces elegant, elongated neck-wrapping gestures, pairing low-cut tailored pieces with fluid fabric chokers and waist sashes that trail behind the moving silhouette.
Grounded neutrals form the structural baseline of Vaccarello’s color palette, which heavily favors classic tones of grey, brown, black and beige. This understated canvas is calculatedly interrupted by striking flashes of orange, ochre, claret, lime and powder blue. Shimmering gold emerges as the ultimate transforming gesture of the collection. Rather than acting as a loud or obvious symbol of wealth, gold is deployed to elevate everyday utilitarian outerwear — climaxing in a spectacular, liquid-metallic belted trench coat and a matching double-breasted suit.
