Why Are Purists So Mad About the Swatch x AP Royal Pop?

5 watch experts give their takes on the disruptive collaboration.

Watches
231 0 Comments
Save

When whispers of a potential crossover between Audemars Piguet and Swatch first gripped the internet, the watch community braced itself for a wrist-bound, Bioceramic carbon copy of Gérald Genta’s iconic timepiece. Instead, the resulting Royal Pop forwent the wrist entirely, dropping as a vibrant mechanical pocket watch. This polarizing choice instantly thrust one of horology’s most coveted silhouettes into a firestorm of debate over brand equity and design irrelevance. While the format shocked casual collectors, the DNA between these Swiss giants runs deep. Beneath the bright, octagonal cases lies a hand-wound iteration of Swatch’s automated SISTEM51 movement, equipped with an anti-magnetic Nivachron™ balance spring — a component originally co-developed by both brands.

The highly anticipated launch over the weekend sparked frenzied global queues and boutique gridlock, commanding the same cultural gravity as the historic MoonSwatch. Yet, behind the social media buzz lies a deeper conversation regarding long-term collectibility. Collectors are deeply divided over whether this “positive provocation” operates as a genuine gateway to mechanical watchmaking for a digital-native generation, or if its non-serviceable architecture and mod-friendly design relegate it to a temporary “trend rather than a permanent horological staple. Once the intense social media FOMO fades, we are left wondering if these Lépine and Savonnette-style pocket watches will inspire lasting appreciation, or simply open the floodgates for cheap, aftermarket wrist-conversions.

To unpack the realities of this monumental drop, we convened a panel of prominent industry voices, journalists, and collectors for our latest roundtable discussion. Joining the conversation are Tom Chng (Founder of the Singapore Watch Club), watch journalist Bhanu Chopra (Worn & Wound contributor), Helbert Tsang (Co-founder of The Horology Club), Oliver Tong (Co-founder of Horoverse) and Françoise-Marie Santucci, a veteran watch journalist whose work spans prominent French publications including Le Nouvel Obs, The Good Life and Montres Heroes.

Swatch and AP subverted expectations by dropping the Royal Pop as a pocket watch. What are your honest thoughts on this format? Do you think this “unconventional” wearability caps its long-term collectibility?

Tom Chng (Singapore Watch Club)

I actually think it’s a very clever and elegant execution of the project. There was plenty of skepticism around whether a plastic Royal Oak wristwatch might dilute or even erode the brand’s equity. By releasing it as a pocket watch instead, AP and Swatch signal that this is, at its core, a horological toy. Something fun and lighthearted that introduces a new generation or demographic to mechanical watchmaking without taking itself too seriously.

At the same time, I appreciate that there’s still a sense of horological purity preserved through the use of a manual-winding movement.

Bhanu Chopra, Watch Journalist

My first thought about Swatch watches is that they are meant to be fun accessories, sometimes even tongue-in-cheek. Therefore, anyone taking this seriously is far removed from the spirit of Swatch watches.

That said, unconventional wearability almost certainly limits the audience. Most collectors still want something they can put on the wrist regularly, not just admire or use a couple of times, then put inside the drawer to be eventually forgotten.

I do think the format caps its mainstream long-term collectability. But it may also create a smaller, more passionate cult following. Historically, this collaboration will be interesting, precisely because it broke the expected formula.

Helbert Tsang (The Horology Club)

I believe this is a great move from Swatch and AP, and is a masterstroke in terms of marketing and product design. It might be difficult to get excited about a Swatch version of a Royal Oak wristwatch because of how much the OG means to a lot of people, but with a new format that still retains a lot of that visual identity, it encourages people to introduce a bit of Royal Oak into their life in the form of a pocket watch/bag charm whatever you want to use it for.

Oliver Tong, Co-Founder of Horoverse

Swatch and AP really went for it by dropping the Royal Pop as a pocket watch instead of a wristwatch. Honestly, I like the idea of them subverting expectations — that’s fun and it keeps things interesting and brings up more discussions in the watch world. But when you attach that format to the price, it starts feeling more like an AP souvenir than a forever piece you’re collecting for years. That said, I don’t think “weird to wear” automatically kills collectibility. Sometimes something can be collectible even if you don’t actually wear it every day.

Françoise-Marie Santucci, Watch Journalist

As the French-speaking Swiss say (and I’m quite fond of this expression): I was “pleasantly disappointed.” Meaning, a slight letdown – because, like many, I had wanted a piece of the Audemars Piguet legend on my wrist – but also a genuine admiration for the boldness of this Royal Pop. The proposition is offbeat, daring, and it could well appeal to women. A shame that the launch, on May 16th, so often descended into chaos.

What could hold the collection back isn’t how it wears, in my view, but what lies inside – namely the Sistem51. A very solid, mechanically automated movement, but one that cannot be serviced.

What impact do you think this release will have on the existing community of Royal Oak owners?

Tom Chng (Singapore Watch Club)

I actually happen to own a Royal Oak pocket watch from 1979, the original piece that inspired this fun tribute. They were produced in very small numbers, and it’s a watch that I genuinely cherish and enjoy.

What I like about the Royal Pop is that many more people will now get to experience the charm of that original concept, and perhaps through it, discover an appreciation for mechanical objects and traditional watchmaking.

Bhanu Chopra, Watch Journalist

I think the impact on existing Royal Oak owners will be more emotional than material. For serious AP collectors, especially those invested in the Royal Oak’s design purity and status, this kind of collaboration may feel playful to the point of irreverence. Some will see that as dilution; others will appreciate it as a confident brand showing it doesn’t need to be overly precious.

I don’t own an AP, so I can’t offer a personal owner’s perspective, but from speaking to friends who collect AP, they don’t see the Royal Pop as threatening the core Royal Oak legacy. If anything, it reinforces how culturally powerful and relevant AP Royal Oak brand has become.

Helbert Tsang (The Horology Club)

I know AP has been getting some criticism that Royal Pop could perhaps “cheapen” the AP brand. For me, as the owner of a vintage Royal Oak, I think it would introduce AP and the Royal Oak to a brand new audience, which could further elevate AP’s popularity. Royal Oak and Royal Pop are different products, just like how Speedmaster and MoonSwatch are different, and I think most would not agree that the MoonSwatch has negatively impacted the desirability of Speedmasters. I think most Royal Oak owners would naturally like the Royal Pop as well, and would probably try to get one.

Oliver Tong, Co-Founder of Horoverse

From the Royal Oak owner’s perspective, it’s not really the pocket watch part that worries people — it’s what the watch can turn into after the fact. To me, the pocket watch style doesn’t really hurt the brand value, and the concept is fine. But the aftermarket bracelet situation is where it gets messy. If the design basically leaves an easy route to change it into a wrist watch, then basically most of us get to have an AP Royal Oak for nearly 1/20 of the original price. The main topic here is the pocket watch… but the execution makes it feel mod-friendly.

Françoise-Marie Santucci, Watch Journalist

I don’t own an Audemars Piguet, unfortunately – neither new nor vintage – but on social media, among a few French collectors who do, I’ve noticed a great deal of irritation toward this collaboration. They genuinely feel it tarnishes the house.
Were I in their position, I don’t think I’d react that way. Because if anything, this collaboration shoots Audemars Piguet straight into contemporary pop culture – far more effectively than any name-drop by American rappers in their songs. That’s something priceless, and it will ultimately be counted as this collaboration’s lasting credit.

Both brands claim the Royal Pop aims to introduce younger generations to mechanical watchmaking through “positive provocation.” Do you think the Royal Pop will actually resonate with new and younger watch enthusiasts/collectors?

Tom Chng (Singapore Watch Club)

Yes, I do think so. Scalpers and resellers aside, once the product eventually reaches the right hands, I believe it will ultimately be a positive thing for the industry.

Younger consumers today are growing up with smartwatches as the norm. For some of them, the Royal Pop could genuinely become their first exposure to horology, which is funny and satisfying to think about considering our grandparents also grew up with pocket watches. In a strange way, it feels like things have come full circle.

Bhanu Chopra, Watch Journalist

I think it will resonate with a certain group of younger audiences, but probably not in the broad manner the brands suggest. It’s attention-grabbing, visually legible, and social-media friendly, which helps spark curiosity (perhaps even FOMO). Younger collectors often respond well to objects that feel ironic, self-aware, and less bound by traditional luxury codes, and the Royal Pop clearly fits that mold.
The challenge is that a plastic novelty alone doesn’t necessarily convert into lasting enthusiasm for mechanical watchmaking. It may succeed as a conversation starter more than as a gateway collectible.

Helbert Tsang (The Horology Club)

I honestly think it will, and the queues outside Swatch stores around the world and all the discussions the Royal Pop has generated seem to support that. Some say the younger generation treasures analog as they grew up in the digital age, and nothing is more analog (or some would even say archaic) than pocket watches. This gives young enthusiasts a chance to get a taste of AP and still retain the Royal Oak as their long-term aspiration.

Oliver Tong, Co-Founder of Horoverse

I’m not convinced it resonates with more younger people to join the watch community after the collaboration. AP is already a well-known name, so people recognize it—but recognition doesn’t mean conversion into collectors. At the end of the day, a lot of buyers might still be buying it more for the design/status than for watch culture. Compared to brands like Omega and Blancpain, this feels more like fashion-with-a-mechanical-label than a doorway into the hobby.

Françoise-Marie Santucci, Watch Journalist

I readily believe it sparks curiosity – if only thanks to (or because of) the enormous buzz across media and social networks. I notice it in my own circle, quite simply: friends’ children are intrigued. And I think the fact that it isn’t a wristwatch is precisely what intrigues them most, even if the format still meets with some resistance.
Obviously, there are also opportunists – beyond the Saturday flippers, those who will look at watchmaking and think: “Wow, watches are expensive, they’re bankable, they’re brilliant!” But among the younger generations exposed to this intense promotion, a few will almost certainly catch the watchmaking bug. And that, frankly, is wonderful.

Do you like the Royal Pop? Will you be copping one?

Tom Chng (Singapore Watch Club)

I think it’d be fun to place the Royal Pop side by side with my original Royal Oak pocket watch and show how one led to the other. I’d also love to use them to introduce my nieces and nephews to mechanical watchmaking in a more approachable and playful way.

Bhanu Chopra, Watch Journalist

This is a great question! I like it more as a statement than as a hype object. A plastic pocket watch tied to one of the most iconic sports-watch designs in history feels intentionally dissonant, but at the same time fun. When the hype subsides, I will buy one and use it as a clock on my desk. However, you will never catch me buying a custom-made strap that converts this fun object into another (hyped) pretend wristwatch.

Helbert Tsang (The Horology Club)

If I can get my hands on one, then sure. My personal favourites are the Ocho Negro and the Lan Ba. I’d probably get the stand as well to use it as a desk clock to bring a bit of joy to my workday whenever I glance down at it.

Oliver Tong, Co-Founder of Horoverse

I like the Royal Pop concept. Like, genuinely—cool, different, and it’s got personality, if only it’s a pure pocket watch. Would I cop one? Maybe, but definitely not now. Especially since we all have seen how the MoonSwatch situation went, people were queuing up at the store 3 days before, and the insane flip price on the trading platform. Finally, it turns out you can walk in and buy one with a retail price half a year later. For sure, it is collectible as the first official watch collaboration between Swatch and AP, so I might get one in the future.

Françoise-Marie Santucci, Watch Journalist

So, after discovering the eight models through press materials – since, apart from a handful of colleagues around the world, journalists were not given access to the actual pieces – I was intrigued, and fairly determined to buy one. Saturday morning, I made my way to Deauville (I was spending the weekend nearby), where the local Swatch store was one of the 17 in France authorised to sell the Royal Pop. But tensions ran high: a large number of young flippers had made the trip from the Paris suburbs, and in the end the boutique never opened. I’ll admit the desire has faded since. I still haven’t seen the watches in person, and I think it will take a little while before genuine enthusiasm returns among true enthusiasts – at least as far as I’m concerned.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

Royal Pop: The Audemars Piguet x Swatch Collab Escapes the Wrist
Watches

Royal Pop: The Audemars Piguet x Swatch Collab Escapes the Wrist

This eight-model collection swaps the traditional bracelet for a calfskin lanyard, reimagining the iconic Royal Oak as a playful pocket watch.

The Significance of Breguet’s First Aiguille d’Or Win in Over a Decade
Watches

The Significance of Breguet’s First Aiguille d’Or Win in Over a Decade

Hypebeast asks friends and experts for their takes.

Esperluxe Partners With De Bethune for the DB27 “Night Hawk” Limited Edition
Watches

Esperluxe Partners With De Bethune for the DB27 “Night Hawk” Limited Edition

Bringing the brand’s iconic “Starry Sky” motif to the DB27 model for the first time.


The Skull Dial: HIDAKA’s Iconic Ring Watch Gets a mastermind JAPAN Makeover
Watches

The Skull Dial: HIDAKA’s Iconic Ring Watch Gets a mastermind JAPAN Makeover

This Tokyo-exclusive drop brings mastermind JAPAN’s iconic skull motif to HIDAKA’s signature accessories.

Joji's Vanishing Act
Music

Joji's Vanishing Act

With “Piss in the Wind,” Joji builds a 21-track world that keeps the spotlight on the songs and off the man behind them.

Wild Turkey Dusts off Cult-Favorite Bourbon for New Gold Foil Edition
Food & Beverage

Wild Turkey Dusts off Cult-Favorite Bourbon for New Gold Foil Edition

Presented by Wild Turkey
Leading the limited-edition line-up in the Austin Nichols Archives Collection.

Kurono Tokyo’s “Kujaku-ishi” Anniversary Watch Debuts a Peacock Stone Dial
Watches

Kurono Tokyo’s “Kujaku-ishi” Anniversary Watch Debuts a Peacock Stone Dial

Named for its resemblance to peacock plumage, this striking limited-edition honors ancient mineralogy and meticulous Japanese artistry.

Milton A.N.C. Headphones Bring Marshall’s Signature Sound On‑The‑Go
Tech & Gadgets

Milton A.N.C. Headphones Bring Marshall’s Signature Sound On‑The‑Go

Built for life in motion, the rugged TPU molded design effortlessly collapses down without losing its premium rock-and-roll edge.

Breitling's Chronomat Returns, and Erling Haaland Might Be the Perfect Person to Wear It
Watches

Breitling's Chronomat Returns, and Erling Haaland Might Be the Perfect Person to Wear It

40 years of precision engineering meets one striker who has never stopped pushing his limits.

Take an Official Look at the Frog-Inspired P.F. Flyers x Saeed Ferguson Grounder Shoe
Footwear

Take an Official Look at the Frog-Inspired P.F. Flyers x Saeed Ferguson Grounder Shoe

Rugged canvas uppers meet chunky lugged soles.


Official Look at AURALEE x New Balance 204L Collaboration
Footwear

Official Look at AURALEE x New Balance 204L Collaboration

A year after their Paris Fashion Week debut, these chic sneakers are finally being released.

Sandy Liang and PORTER Are Restocking Their SS26 Collab: Here’s How To Get Yours
Fashion

Sandy Liang and PORTER Are Restocking Their SS26 Collab: Here’s How To Get Yours

The Jacquard-woven, emoticon-coded collaboration between Tokyo’s most trusted bag maker and New York’s most charming designer returns.

Snow Peak's First-Ever Cooling Apparel Line Uses Peltier Technology and Water Circulation to Solve Japan's Extreme Heat Problem
Fashion

Snow Peak's First-Ever Cooling Apparel Line Uses Peltier Technology and Water Circulation to Solve Japan's Extreme Heat Problem

The Cooling System Wear series launches this May with two industry-pushing vests that treat summer like an engineering challenge.

Nike Debuts the Astrograbber in a Simple But Powerful “Sail/Old Royal” Colorway
Footwear

Nike Debuts the Astrograbber in a Simple But Powerful “Sail/Old Royal” Colorway

One of Nike’s earliest silhouettes returns in a three-tone colorway that earns its place in the current archive revival conversation.

OREO Shakes up the Snack Aisle With New Limited-Edition "Firecracker Pop" Cookies
Food & Beverage

OREO Shakes up the Snack Aisle With New Limited-Edition "Firecracker Pop" Cookies

Bringing peak childhood nostalgia to your pantry with a triple-layered fruity creme.

Nike SB Dunk Low Shines in Green Patent and Metallic Gold
Footwear

Nike SB Dunk Low Shines in Green Patent and Metallic Gold

Arriving for the Holiday 2026 season, this premium “Black Spruce” release elevates the skate silhouette with unique crest branding and cork insoles.

More ▾