On January 30, it was confirmed that Belgian designer Pieter Mulier would step down from his role as creative director at maison Alaïa. While Alaïa has yet to name its next appointee, far more attention is being drawn to where Mulier is headed next.

The departure has resurfaced rumors that started in 2025, suggesting that Mulier would be Versace‘s next head designer following the unexpected termination of Dario Vitale‘s newly minted leadership. In December, a report from WWD revealed that sources close to the matter in Milan said that Mulier is indeed expected to move to Versace, which was acquired by Prada Group from Capri Holdings in a historic 2025 deal.

Mulier, who studied architecture at Brussels’ Institut Saint-Luc, is closely identified with Raf Simons, with whom he has worked closely throughout the years. The designer officially joined Raf Simons to lead its creative team in 2002 and continued to work as “Raf Simons’ right-hand man” at Jil Sander in 2006 and later at Dior, when Simons was appointed creative director in 2012. The two designers continued to stick together when Simons was appointed to Calvin Klein in 2017, a strong bond that was demonstrated by their shared bows.

The question is whether Mulier will also follow Simons to Prada Group, where Simons has served as co-creative director of Prada with heiress Miuccia Prada since 2020. Mulier could very well fill a similar niche as Simons, remaining in dialogue with the brand’s heiress, Donatella Versace, if he takes the role. The strong dual-leadership strategy at Prada contributed to its outstanding performance last year, outpacing its rivals in the “luxury slowdown” with 19 uninterrupted quarters of growth, as reported in its 9M 2025 results.

Mulier’s 2021 move to Alaïa confirmed Mulier’s legitimacy in luxury as an independent creative director. He was the first creative director to fill founder Azzedine Alaïa’s shoes after his passing in 2017, a career-defining role for any designer. Being given the honor of being the first person to carry forth the legacy of a maison’s namesake designer is no small feat. Just before stepping down, the 2025 CFDA Awards named Mulier the International Designer of the Year for his work at Alaïa, further cementing his position in the industry.

Whether it was the mixed response to Vitale’s new vision or a strategic pivot to reposition Versace amidst Prada’s takeover, Mulier’s résumé could certainly make him a strong replacement. The designer has spent years leading design teams for a mixture of legendary labels. His time at Dior demonstrated his ability to straddle couture and luxury, and his work at Calvin Klein showed his ability to heighten the appeal of a more pedestrian brand. On the fashion spectrum, Versace sits between these two worlds, known for a dual ethos of opulence and ease.

Furthermore, Mulier’s well-received run at Alaïa boosts confidence in his aptitude, having led modern maisons much like Versace as well as heritage houses like Dior. Indeed, most of Mulier’s experience comes from working with contemporary-leaning brands that began in the late ’70s and early ’80s—from Jil Sander to Calvin Klein and even Azzedine Alaïa. Founded in 1978 by Gianni Versace, Versace is arguably the most versatile of the aforementioned names, creating everything from its glittering metallic gowns to the more casual expressions of Versace Jeans.

Under Donatella, the brand’s literal DNA has remained, far beyond Gianni’s passing, and his sister has stayed closely involved with the brand since stepping down in 2025. In fact, her absence from Vitale’s SS26 runway debut in Milan was partially what raised eyebrows across the industry. However, Prada Group emphasized its intention to preserve the brand’s integrity when the acquisition closed in April: “Within the Prada Group, Versace will maintain its creative DNA and cultural authenticity, while benefiting from the full strength of the Group’s consolidated platform, including industrial capabilities, retail execution, and operational expertise.”

The signals from Prada Group and Donatella show that they aren’t seeking a disruptor to reinvent the brand, but a steward to preserve Versace’s established identity and a veteran visionary strong enough to guide its future. Based on Mulier’s history of following collaborator Raf Simons, the designer could already have his foot in the door.

As of the time of writing, Prada Group has not yet named a successor for Dario Vitale, but sources indicate that his replacement could be revealed this February.