MM6 Maison Margiela FW26 Is Peak '90s Normcore

Featuring intarsia quarter zips, patterned sherpa pullovers, retro shell jackets with rugged and washed denim.

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Summary

  • MM6 Maison Margiela’s FW26 collection pivots toward “normcore” Americana, blending 90s-inspired thrift aesthetics with Western flannel and horse graphics.
  • Staged at Milan’s Centrale Station, the range balances commercial officewear with a vintage, Midwestern sensibility.

For FW26, MM6 Maison Margiela staged its runway show at Milan’s Centrale Station. The busy core of the city’s daily movements set the ideal backdrop for the label’s latest range, which leans pedestrian in its expression. Starkly contrasting with Margiela’s Artisanal line, MM6 often toys with the boundaries between officewear and clubwear, representing the more commercial arm of the Maison.

However, instead of leaning into the city’s Milanese style, looks were noticeably riddled with Americana-isms and late ’80s/90’s sensibilities. It seems that Glenn Martens has turned his gaze to the American Midwest for this collection, with a definitively vintage sensibility.  Standing out are graphic fleeces and intarsia quarter-zips, resembling the styles you might find at a middle America thrift shop.

Flannel shirt galore, retro shell jackets, and horse graphics created an image eerily reminiscent of the queer Western romance Brokeback Mountain (2005). One could easily imagine Jake Gyllenhaal or Heath Ledger in certain looks: a red flannel shirt worn with half-unzipped blue jeans, a brown suede cardigan worn with a horse tee, and slim light-wash jeans. In womenswear, Anne Hathaway’s country belle character could certainly pull off the ballooning denim skirt and flannel shirt presented at the close.

Many of the looks are remarkably “normcore,” styled with a casual ease and generally constructed with standard fits and cuts. MM6 still leaves room for its core customer, offering solid blouses, sweaters, overcoats, trenches, trousers, and skirts that reflect the brand’s modern, anonymous ethos.

See the gallery above for a full look at MM6 Maison Margiela FW26 and stay tuned to Hypebeast for the latest Milan Fashion Week news.

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