The SS26 Fashion Trends We're Looking Forward to & Why

From Jonathan Anderson’s supersized Dior cargos to Willy Chavarria’s brocade trousers, we’ve curated the most interesting menswear developments from the SS26 runways.

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Every season, spectators, customers, and industry insiders alike look to the runways of Paris, Milan, New York City, and other major cities to decipher early signals for the coming seasons.

Last year’s SS26 runways included some of the most highly anticipated shows in years, largely due to the unprecedented number of debuts like Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Michael Rider at Celine, and Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela. While design legends like Junya Watanabe and the late Giorgio Armani reaffirmed their mastery of the zeitgeist, rising vanguards like Feng Chen Wang and Willy Chavarria continued to disrupt menswear codes with diverse perspectives.

We’ve curated the most significant design developments that emerged from these collections. Proportions shifted, historical references spanned centuries, and an air of whimsicality was palpable. Silhouettes were scaled to new heights as new design vernaculars blurred the lines between womenswear and menswear. SS26 was not a season for the average; it was a season of emotion and imagination.

Here are the trends we’re looking forward to seeing unfold and why they work.


The “Dress” Shirt

Forget the tailor — the SS26 runways say it’s okay to drown in your dress shirt. Imagine your favorite shirts scaled up, reaching below the thighs or even brushing at the ankles. Dress-length shirts came down the runway in various forms, from Vivienne Westwood’s long-line rugby shirt to Prada’s extended workshirts and Loro Piana’s printed tunics. Whereas Dior’s “dress” shirt is so long that it doesn’t need to be paired with any bottoms, others like Ami Paris styled the garment into multi-layered looks.

While menswear has had its love affair with the waistline crop for several summers now, hemlines are dropping down far below the hips. Taking ‘oversized’ to the max, these big and breezy shirts can be a lifesaver in the heat by optimizing aeration.

Granny Knits

Sweaters and cardigans carried a particularly grandma-esque sensibility through details like delicate yarns, as seen in Feng Chen Wang, pastoral scenes as seen in Junya Watanabe, and floral motifs as seen in Amiri. Even solid knits were rendered in gentle hues of baby pink and blue, such as in Louis Vuitton and Margiela.

There’s nothing more sentimental than a family heirloom, and perhaps it’s that emotional connection that designers aim to tap into with this season’s knits. While bringing a playfulness to menswear with folkloric themes and quaint details, the granny knit can be an ideal transitional sweater – especially those with mesh-like construction and delicate yarns.

Regiment Coats

From nylon bombers to leather flight jackets, military-inspired outerwear styles are a fixture in modern men’s style, but rarely do the uniforms of antiquity reappear – until now. The SS26 runways brought them back in full force, with examples of single-breasted, double-breasted, and ornately braided regiment coats.

While Ann Demeulemeester rendered faithful replicas, Craig Green went the deconstructivist route, and NIGO embraced a trompe l’oeil style for Kenzo. Even Lil Uzi Vert rocks a sequined regiment coat in his new “What You Saying” music video.

Certainly a statement piece, the regiment coat is far from anything considered athleisure, but that’s its exact appeal. The renewed attention towards fine tailoring and dandyism in menswear has brought bygone styles like these back into the moment. Thankfully, since the coat finds its origins on the battlefield, it’s usually lightweight compared to a padded bomber or sherpa flight jacket, making it ideal for spring/summer.

Mega Shorts

It was 2020 when TikToks and think pieces made an impassioned plea for men’s shorts not to exceed 5’. Suddenly, it’s 2026, and shorts are back to being big as ever. Mega shorts have been brewing in menswear for some time, coinciding with the unrelenting ‘big pants’ trend.

One could argue that Willy Chavarria planted the seed early with his incomparably oversized bottoms. However, this season, Anderson’s Dior debut and subsequent Pre-spring collection featured a range of ultra-large cargo shorts with an a-line shape. Among other contemporary labels, IM Men had a lustrous beige variant, and Our Legacy interpreted it in a classic striped linen. Unlike a short-short, mega shorts lend themselves better to the evening transition, while the swish of oversized legs welcomes the breeze during the day.

Leather Trousers

Peaking around 2011-2012, there was a time when leather jeans evoked paparazzi images of Ye’s street style and Olivier Rousteing’s early Balmain collections. Now they’re back and baggier. Some of luxury’s most covetable brands, including Hermes, Celine, and Giorgio Armani, cosigned the comeback in their presentations. Most of these brands opted for black leather — the classic expression popularized by bikers and Punk rockers.

However, leaning into a looser fit, SS26’s leather pants become all the more functional and summer-friendly. It’s not all that easy to get into or out of a skinny pair of leather jeans, especially in a summer sweat. Yet, the more adventurous labels like Acne Studios and Martine Rose are ready for the return of skinny, showing skintight leather jeans in their collections.

Summer Check Sets

Is it a suit? Is it pajamas? Maybe it’s neither. summer sets in checked fabric were interpreted in different ways, from Wales Bonner and Kiko Kostadinov’s tailored numbers to Zegna and Saul Nash’s beachy two-pieces. The look centers around thigh-length shorts with light blousons or open collar shirts in matching fabrics.

Most designers styled their check sets with slippers with an undershirt or exposed chest, signalling their function to loungewear. Picture them being worn in a picnic at the park or for a beachside brunch in their most natural habitat. Similar looks also appeared in pinstripes and other spring/summer patterns, as well as trouser-based sets.

Hip Scarves

The “hip scarf,” more commonly known as a sarong, remains a popular choice of clothing among men in Eastern cultures today. Its basic design is convenient for maximum air circulation when wrapped and tied at the waist, especially in hot and humid climates. However, this contemporary Western interpretation of the traditional garb appears in new contexts and forms.

The style appeared consistently in Dries Van Noten’s SS26 show, layered over trousers, while making smaller appearances in collections from Engineered Garments and Junya Watanabe. Jonathan Anderson’s Dior menswear debut and Amiri lean into a more European notion of the scarf, opting for narrow sateen scarves with long tassels. In Olivier Rousteing’s final collection for Balmain, what appears as a traditional sarong, in fact, morphs into baggy trousers with impeccable draping.

However, it may be interpreted, hip scarves like the above are an easy way to finish a look with added interest and dimension. Best of all, it’s a versatile accessory that can be used around the head to protect from the sun or as a shawl when the evening breeze hits.

Brocade

Brocade is a richly decorated woven fabric, often using different colored threads, even in metallic hues. It’s the kind of fabric that evokes royalty and opulence, but in SS26 menswear, designers incorporated the fabric in unexpected ways. Strong examples expressed traditional brocade in baggy bottoms from Willy Chavarria, Simone Rocha, and Kartik Research. Elsewhere, brocade-like jacquards were inventively applied to classic jackets from Junya Watanabe.

What makes this trend interesting is that the rather ornate fabric is finally being incorporated into typical menswear styles. It makes the bold statement that menswear can be elevated to that same level of regality that’s often reserved for womenswear. After all, it wasn’t until 2021 that Pierpaolo Piccioli introduced Valentino’s first Couture for men, and many houses have yet to follow suit.

Something Pink

Pantone may have named the off-white “Cloud Dancer” as the color of the year, but there’s another, more exciting hue that made itself heard loud and clear on the SS26 runway. Pink for spring/summer may not be a groundbreaking trend, but its widespread use was particularly notable. Unlike the saturated Pierpaolo pink that came to be associated with the Barbie franchise, these lighter tints are gentler on the eyes and more versatile.

Tastemakers of the moment, like Willy Chavarria and Jonathan Anderson for Dior, both presented collections with a strong presence of salmon pink. The color brings a youthful lift to pieces like Chavarria’s brocade trousers and Anderson’s baggy Dior cargoes. Elsewhere, soft touches of baby pink appeared in an Hermes neckerchief and Off-White’s color-blocked garments.

Apart from a few head-to-toe examples, this season pink serves mainly as an accent, bringing whimsy to otherwise neutral outfits and grunge staples like leather biker jackets and distressed flannels.

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