Martine Rose FW26 Is Silly Yet Serious
Blending Renaissance opulence with subcultural grit.
Summary
- Martine Rose’s FW26 menswear at Paris Fashion Week fused Renaissance opulence with 1990s club wear
- Key looks featured corset‑stitched jackets, satin bombers, leather trousers, and playful fur flourishes
- The collection balanced serious craftsmanship and irreverent humor, reaffirming Rose’s enduring menswear influence
Martine Rose has delivered the Fall/Winter 2026 menswear collection for her namesake label at Paris Fashion Week. The lineup was a flamboyant exploration of archetypes, self‑expression and historical references, blending humor with sartorial drama.
For this collection, Rose drew inspiration from figures known for their extravagant style, including King Henry VIII, James Brown and British boxer Prince Naseem, channeling their flamboyance into garments that oscillated between Renaissance opulence and 1990s club wear. Key pieces included corset‑stitched jackets, satin bombers with built‑in hoods, and leather trousers with front lacing, alongside shirts spliced with lingerie elements.
Silhouettes were exaggerated yet playful, with puffed sleeves reminiscent of Tudor doublets reimagined into sports jackets and MA‑1 bombers. Fur flourishes, ranging from old lady-esque textures to hot pink fluff, adorned collars and shoulders, while animal‑print inserts and utility jackets reinforced Rose’s signature codes. The collection’s swagger was amplified by tight leather pants and elongated shoes, creating a visual language that was both decadent and subversive.
The FW26 collection reaffirmed Martine Rose’s mastery of contradiction: serious craftsmanship intertwined with irreverent humor. By revisiting her brand signifiers – fetish‑like hardware, camisole‑layered shirts, and oversized workwear – she reminded audiences of her enduring influence on menswear. The result was a collection that felt like a history lesson, a fashion experiment and a playful provocation all at once, underscoring Rose’s ability to merge cultural references with contemporary attitude.
