Leo Dell’Orco’s Giorgio Armani FW26 Men’s Collection Honors Legacy With Modern Twists
Staged in the designer’s private Milan home.
Summary
- The Giorgio Armani FW26 Mens Collection marked the first seasonal range without its founder’s input following his passing
- Led by Leo Dell’Orco, the expansive collection opens with soft tailoring in signature grey tones, followed subtle silhouette shifts, unconventional hues and a collaboration with ALANUI
Marking a poignant new era for the house, Giorgio Armani’s Fall/Winter 2026 menswear collection, debuted at Milan Fashion Week, as the first since the passing of its legendary founder five months ago. Orchestrated by Leo Dell’Orco – Armani’s longtime confidant and head of menswear – the collection was less a revolution and more a soulful act of custodianship.
Staged in the intimate setting of the designer’s private residence in Milan, the show opened with soft tailoring in trademark greige and charcoal. Dell’Orco honored the heritage with unvented jackets that maintained the house’s iconic liquid flow, though he introduced a subtle shift in silhouette, bringing proportions that slightly touch the frame rather than drowning it.
The narrative of the collection balanced familiar motifs with gentle experimentation. A recurring diamond pattern surfaced across quilted bags and work satchels, while the outerwear made a significant statement through long, double-breasted coats in velvet, suede shearling and printed fur. In a notable departure from tradition, Dell’Orco introduced a second phase that steered the direction to alpine-inspired pieces- from the Neve line – and a trio of outerwear in unconventional shades of purple and iridescent green.
The collection also introduced a collaboration with ALANUI, producing fringed, striped wrap cardigans for both men and women. Standout tailoring included semi‑sheer velvet suits crushed to reflect light in chaotic, corduroy‑like stripes, while the finale featured coed black‑and‑white evening looks that balanced experimentation with restraint.
Throughout the collection, Dell’Orco emphasized sumptuous fabrics and nuanced color choices, weaving emerald, amethyst and iridescent accents into the otherwise muted palette. His approach reflected a desire to honor Armani’s timeless aesthetic while adding personal eccentricity through closer proportions and subtle shine.
