Dries Van Noten FW26 Celebrates the Art of Moving On
Titled “When Dawn Breaks,” the collection is Julian Klausner’s second menswear collection for the brand.
Summary
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Julian Klausner’s second collection for Dries Van Noten explores the quiet transition of leaving home for the city, celebrating the honest and spontaneous ways young people experiment with their first independent wardrobes
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The aesthetic embraces a sophisticated version of granny chic, featuring oversized argyle sweaters, Fair Isle knits, and inherited family silhouettes that serve as nostalgic security blankets for the modern wanderer
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The show highlights a playful mix of mismatched proportions and textures, pairing blurred floral Polaroid prints and pastel accents with practical travel accessories like laundry bags and patchwork hats
For his second menswear outing as Creative Director of Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner presents a collection that captures the quiet, exciting hum of leaving home. The show began to the tune of “Yo Ga Aketara” (When Dawn Breaks), depicting a move away from the celebratory beach sunrise of the previous season and follows those same characters as they pack their bags for the big city. Immediately as models marched down the runway in the newest collection, there was a sense of celebration of the “first experiments” with style—that awkward, honest moment when you start mixing old favorites with new adventures.
The aesthetic leans heavily into what modern style enthusiasts call “granny chic,” elevated with the sophisticated Belgian touch of the House. Klausner leans into the charm of the inherited wardrobe, filling the runway with massive, cozy knits, classic argyle sweaters, and eccentric Fair Isle patterns that feel like they were pulled straight from a grandparent’s cedar chest. These “friendly clothes” act as security blankets for the characters, offering a sense of warmth and history as they step out of their comfort zones.
The silhouettes play with these “wrong” proportions—some pieces are hyper-shrunken while others are intentionally massive—creating a look that feels spontaneous and unpolished. Blurred floral prints taken from Polaroids and “Fruitella” pastel accents brighten a moody palette of blues and greys. Accessories tell the story of a traveler on the move, featuring laundry-style bags, “wanderer” patchwork hats, and lucky charms pinned like fishing lures. It’s a masterclass in “sharp casualness,” proving that the most meaningful style often comes from the things we carry with us.
