Jil Sander Creative Directors Step Down & Dsquared2 Celebrates 30 Years in This Week's Top Fashion News

In this week’s top fashion news, runway shows charged forward with bittersweet presentations paying homage to beloved designers, brands announced big plans for overseas expansion, and trending segments like outdoor gear and shapewear reached new milestones.

At Milan Fashion Week, Jil Sander‘s creative director duo Lucie and Luke Meier announced that departure with a toned down collection, while Dsquared2 took its vision to new heights with a 30th anniversary runway extravaganza. On the sidelines, Bottega Veneta sat this season out to open its new headquarters in a historic Milan landmark. Elsewhere, the outdoor gear segment shows no signs of slowing as Arc’teryx parent Amer Sports reported healthy growth. On the other end of the industry, Calvin Klein staked its claim in the growing shapewear segment, releasing a new collection focusing on solution-oriented undergarments. Finally, Antwerp-label Dries Van Noten and Tokyo label BEAMS both advanced their global expansion with physical retail initiatives.

Below, Hypebeast has rounded up the top fashion stories of the week so you can stay up to date on trends in the industry.

Jil Sander FW25 Was a Quiet Swan Song

Unbeknownst to the audience, Jil Sander’s Fall/Winter 2025 show last Wednesday in Milan was the final show designed by the German luxury label’s creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier. A few hours after the show’s conclusion, the brand shared a press release announcing the end of the couple’s tenure as joint creative directors. “Jil Sander and its Creative Directors Lucie and Luke Meier have mutually decided that this collection would be the last of their collaboration,” said the statement. However, the release did not announce a successor for the couple.

For eight years, the husband and wife helmed the house, honoring its founder’s minimalist sensibilities for the contemporary customer with sharp tailoring, opulent textiles and gender-fluid silhouettes.  The release expounded on their impact, “The designers seize this occasion to express their heartfelt gratitude to OTB and the Jil Sander teams who have consistently dedicated their energy, passion, and talent to this project, and are proud of the work they have accomplished alongside such wonderful people. A special thanks as well to Mr. Rosso.”

Dsquared2 Toasts 30 Years in (Show)Biz With Doechii, JT, Naomi Campbell and More

Twin founders Dean and Dan Caten celebrated three decades of their label Dsquared2 with a bold and theatrical Fall 2025 show at Milan Fashion Week. Blending fashion, music, and pop culture — as they’re known for – the runway was set in a nightclub-inspired venue complete with a multi-story building set.

Rapper Doechii opened the show dramatically, emerging from an armored tank, nodding Dsquared2‘s iconic 2003 show featuring supermodel Naomi Campbell. The star-studded cast—including  Campbell herself, Irina Shayk, and rapper NLE Choppa—arrived in different vehicles, wearing oversized and ultra-mini outerwear, daring denim, and flamboyant feathered pieces. Collaborations with Magliano, Vaquera, Ducati, and more infused fresh energy into archival-inspired designs. The finale centered on Brigitte Nielsen as a police officer, arresting the Caten brothers before breaking free for a runway celebration. Doechii and JT’s performance of Alter Ego concluded the show, reinforcing Dsquared2’s signature mix of rebellious glamour and entertainment.

Bottega Veneta To Unveil New Headquarters In Lieu of Runway Show This Season

Instead of staging a conventional runway show for Fall/Winter 2025, Bottega Veneta will pause its schedule to celebrate its new Milan headquarters. While the Italian house’s new creative director Louise Trotter, who succeeded Matthieu Blazy in January, will not debut her first collection yet, the brand will host a special store event this weekend during Milan Fashion Week.

Housed in the historic Manzoni Theater near the Duomo, the headquarters has been restored in collaboration with Belgian architects Office Kersten Geers David Van Severen. Out of its seven floors, three floors have been reimagined into a new showroom and cultural space. The Saturday event will feature a performance by Patti Smith as part of a project by Soundwalk Collective, and a tribute to architect Carlo Mollino. While Trotter’s official debut remains unknown, the brand’s focus is on marking a new chapter in its iconic Milan location.

Arc’teryx Posted Over $2 Billion USD in Sales in 2024

Outdoor gear purveyor, Arc’teryx had a remarkable 2024, generating over $2 billion USD in sales and contributing to parent company Amer Sports‘ triumphant return to profitability. Amer Sports posted a net income of $15 million USD, recovering from a $93 million USD loss in the prior year’s fourth quarter. The company experienced a 23% sales boost, with adjusted net income climbing to $236 million USD.

Sales in its technical apparel segment, including labels Arc’teryx and Peak Performance, surged 33% to $745 million USD, while outdoor performance brands such as Salomon, Atomic, and Armada grew 13% to $594 million USD. Calling Arc’teryx a “breakout growth story,” CEO James Zheng highlighted its direct-to-consumer success and worldwide potential. Last year, the brand opened 33 stores and plans up to 30 more in 2025, targeting 200 locations in North America, 100 in Europe/APAC, and 200 in China.

Dries Van Noten Announces Global Retail Expansion Starting in Spring 2025

As creative director Julian Klausner prepares to present his first collection for the Antwerp-label in March, Dries Van Noten has announced a roll-out of new retail locations across the globe, set to begin opening in Spring 2025 and continuing throughout the year. In a statement provided to WWD, the brand announced store openings in New York, London, Milan, Brussels, and Tokyo, cities where the label sees vibrant potential.

The forthcoming boutique in New York is at 168 Mercer Street; in London at 21 Hanover Square; in Brussels at 89 Rue Antoine Dansaert; in Tokyo at 5-5-4 Minami Aoyama, and in Milan at 11 Via Brera. Each store is set to open in March and April, except for the Milan store, expected to open in the third quarter. The New York and London stores will serve as fashion and beauty flagships, while the Milan and Brussels stores will focus on beauty and accessories.

BEAMS Is Opening a Los Angeles Pop-Up Next Month

After successful inaugural pop-ups for BEAMS PLUS in Los Angeles and New York City, BEAMS has announced that it will bring another pop-up to Los Angeles focused on its main line collection. From March 7 to April 20, BEAMS’ pop-up will take place in the same location as the previous BEAMS PLUS LIMITED storefront: 620 Imperial Street.

The first-ever BEAMS LA pop-up will house the Americana-inspired label’s SS25 collection and “the A,” a new line from the brand aimed at redefining what it means to be “authentic” through the lens of American casualwear. In another corner of the pop-up, BEAMS will sell pieces from its surf and skate sublabel SSZ and exclusive collaborations with brands including Levi’s and Japanese brand NEEDLES.

Calvin Klein Sets Its Sights On Shapewear

Though Calvin Klein is known for its reliable underwear, the classic American brand has unveiled its first shapewear collection. The collection includes sculpting undergarments and fashion shapewear meant to be styled with looks evoking “sensual simplicity.” Styles include biker short bodysuits, seamless thongs, lace-trimmed one-pieces and more. Each garment features four key proprietary components: Second Skin Smoothing, Stay Put Mesh, Stay Put Stretch, and Secure Sculpt.

Calvin Klein’s foray into shapewear comes shortly after SKIMS and Nike’s newly announced joint venture. With SKIMS currently valued at roughly $4 billion USD, NikeSkims is the latest move in Kim Kardashian’s continuous expansion of the shapewear line. Until now, SKIMS has monopolized a large share of the shapewear landscape, but now Calvin Klein is trying its hand at the category. The brand’s shapewear is available online now, ranging from $34 for a “Second Skin Smoothing Thong” to $104 for a “Stay-Put Stretch Slip.”