Mod Meets Modern For Gucci FW25
Following Sabato De Sarno’s departure, the design team returned with a sexier take on retro silhouettes.
Lights, cameras, action— that’s how Gucci felt as a live orchestra set the Fall/Winter 2025 collection in motion. Staged in a massive room with shining interlocking Gs mirrored on the floor and ceilings, the catwalk resembled a high-tech rendering of the inside of a retro perfume bottle. The clothes were representative of a similar mod-meets-modern and everything in between.
Like many designers this season, fur and lace reigned supreme. In other looks, Twiggy-esque A-line mini dresses were paired with silk scarves tied over baseball caps, and the signature horse-bit motif was reimagined as a drop-chain necktie. Pastel patent leather skirt suits were also updated with boxier shapes, and glittery 1980s logo catsuits were paired with revamped shaggy Jackies.
The collection, the first since Sabato De Sarno’s departure just a few weeks ago, was designed by the brand’s internal team. De Sarno’s collections often played with the idea of “his and hers” matching sets. A look presented during the womenswear show would often have a complementary menswear counterpart.
This season, the team went one step further presenting an entirely co-ed collection split down the middle. For the men, outerwear and striped duffles stood out as the hero pieces, many of which were presented on top of well-tailored monotone suits that served as the base.
Gucci is not the first luxury designer to incorporate both categories into one runway presentation, Acne Studios notably staged simultaneous runway shows divided by a mirror during FW20, but it is representative of fashion’s increasing blurring of the schedule’s boundaries and the current prevailing popularity of menswear-for-womenswear as a trend.
This is also not the first time Gucci has relied on its design team. Following Alessandro Michele’s shock departure in November of 2022, the brand utilized the collective for four seasons before De Sarno’s confirmation and debut.
Some might recognize similar patterns and silhouettes across the design team’s FW23 runway and the current collection. In both cases, the team played with corporate contrast, adding bright accents of oranges, greens, and blues as a balance to muted formalwear and suits. Sheer, sequined, and lace low-rise midi skirts paired with more neutral long-sleeve sweaters also remained a statement silhouette. De Sarno’s runways, which were criticized for their uber-commercial feel, stand as a distinct aesthetic interlude between those designed by the collective team.
Gucci has yet to confirm its newest creative director; however, amidst the brand’s falling sales and its newest collection’s debut, many are watching in anticipation.
You can check out Gucci’s full Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Milan Fashion Week coverage.
