How Virgil Abloh Broke the Codes and Rewrote the Matrix

Beyond the quotation marks, Virgil Abloh redesigned what it means to be a designer. This year’s Hypebeast100 Hall of Fame honors a creator who changed culture forever.

Written by Jian DeLeon

Photo: Bogdan "chilldays" Plakov

This story is a complementary profile to the 2025 Hypebeast100, our annual recognition of the creatives shaping fashion and culture today. Explore the full Hypebeast100 list, award winners, and this year’s Next class of emerging designers here.

There are many designers who have created aspirational lifestyles, transcending the collections they make and informing other aspects of culture. Ralph Lauren set the archetype, willing himself into the very embodiment of upper crust American life that his clothes were inspired by. Hedi Slimane’s exacting proportions and continued fascination with rock bands and club culture is a high still being chased by modern archive kids. But Virgil Abloh did something else entirely — he rewrote the rules of what it meant to be a designer in the modern era, and in the process also redefined what kids could aspire to.

His unlikely story is practically textbook knowledge by now. A young kid born to Ghanaian parents in Rockford, Illinois eventually becomes fascinated with music, subculture, architecture, and design. He studies architecture at the University of Madison-Wisconsin and gets his master’s at the Illinois Institute of Technology, where he concurrently discovers a love for art history, Mies Van Der Rohe, screenprinting T-shirts, and blogging for an IYKYK website called The Brilliance! Even before he started working with Kanye West, Abloh’s stream-of-consciousness style of creativity was already taking shape.

“Virgil’s creativity was like a constant stream of light. It wasn’t confined to fashion or art; it spilled into every corner of life.”

Shannon Abloh

“Virgil’s creativity was like a constant stream of light. It wasn’t confined to fashion or art; it spilled into every corner of life. He could look at something ordinary — a chair, a sneaker, a DJ set, a book — and transform it into something extraordinary, rooted in vision. Each project carried the same energy: a refusal to be boxed in,” says Shannon Abloh, the Founder and Board President of the Virgil Abloh Foundation and the Chief Executive Officer and Managing Director of Virgil Abloh Securities.

Virgil Abloh and Shannon Abloh met in high school and were married in 2009. After his untimely passing in 2021, Shannon Abloh took on the arduous task of not only helping preserve her late husband’s legacy, but stewarding it towards the future. The Virgil Abloh Foundation and Virgil Abloh Securities are organizations set up to offer everything from educational youth programs to retrospective exhibitions like the recent “Virgil Abloh: The Codes” exhibit at The Grand Palais earlier this year. It marked the debut of the Virgil Abloh Archive, itself a testament to the kind of open-source creative spirit and attitude of accessibility that Abloh had, meant to foster more equitable and inclusive spaces for underrepresented young creatives.

So many people have had the opportunity to step into Virgil Abloh’s shoes in a literal sense, but the exhibit offers the opportunity to do so in an artistic one. For the first time, Abloh’s holistic practice is juxtaposed with another big inspiration for him: a keen collector’s mindset and personal archive of objets d’art, fashion grails, and other ephemera. Everything from magazines, unfinished prototypes, pitch decks for projects that never came to fruition, to custom Chrome Hearts pieces speaks to the novel way in which Abloh’s mind toggled between a constant state of output and a constant state of input.

“His enthusiasm for collecting was inseparable from his creative process.”

Shannon Abloh

“His deep, obsessive collecting became a mode of learning, a way to absorb as much as possible about the disciplines he loved. This practice fueled his creativity, allowing him to cross-pollinate ideas from different fields and historical periods,” adds Shannon Abloh. “His enthusiasm for collecting was inseparable from his creative process. It was how he remembered, how he learned, how he produced, and how he built a community that continues to shape culture today.”

Virgil Abloh’s canon is unique in that it reflects the creative output of the era in which it was created. Bridging mediums, platforms, and audiences, he gave feedback as freely on WhatsApp as he would in a physical studio. If the seasonal collections he put out for both Louis Vuitton and Off-White were his major label albums, all of the projects in between were a combination of hot-in-the-street mixtapes and surprise, self-released singles. He embodied the digital DIY spirit that begat a new generation of content creators, while also managing to gain validation and acclaim from the highest echelons of old-school fashion.

Although the so-called “high-low” mix had existed in the creative world before, it really was Virgil Abloh who connected the two in a very real way. People who had Louis Vuitton bags certainly wore Air Force 1s, but he was the one who broke that final barrier of collaborative partnerships, and did it in a way that felt authentic to all the parties involved. But it was Abloh’s adept understanding of nuance that set his novel approach to design apart.

In a world increasingly ready to adopt artificial intelligence as a means of drafting and refining ideas, it’s important to remember that Abloh’s 3% approach was built on a foundation of both encyclopedic knowledge and sincere reverence for the initial soul possessed by a design — whether it was the Evian water bottle, Air Jordan 1, or Mercedes-Benz G-Class. Ever the architect, his deconstructive design first began with a fundamental understanding of how something was built in the first place, and then like a magician pulling a rabbit out of a hat, offering parallel ideas inspired by other artists or brands where he could feel there was untapped synergy. You simply can’t write an algorithm for being able to accurately pinpoint the vibe.

“His imagination wasn’t just about making things; it was about connecting people, cultures, and ideas,” says Shannon Abloh. “To me, it felt like he was always building bridges between past and future, mass and luxury, personal and universal. That was the gift he carried and shared with the world.”

See Tags/Comments
Tags
Virgil AblohHB100Hypebeast100
0 Comments

What to Read Next

Meet the Emerging Designers Shaping Tomorrow’s Fashion
Fashion 

Meet the Emerging Designers Shaping Tomorrow’s Fashion

Across tailoring, sport, and experimentation, this year’s Hypebeast100 Next class of emerging designers share how intention, material, and lived experience are shaping their work.

Hypebeast100 2025: This Year’s List of the Most Accomplished Creatives
Fashion 

Hypebeast100 2025: This Year’s List of the Most Accomplished Creatives

Individuals in fashion who’ve continued to inspire and influence vast industries and communities.

How Chitose Abe Became the Designer of 2025
Fashion 

How Chitose Abe Became the Designer of 2025

In a year of resets and rethinks, Abe’s singular vision showed why sacai doesn’t need reinvention to stand apart.


How Kasing Lung’s Labubu Became the Billion-Dollar Bag Charm
Art 

How Kasing Lung’s Labubu Became the Billion-Dollar Bag Charm

The artist breaks down the power of scarcity, the importance of high-fashion collaborations, and hints at the new chapter for the sharp-toothed elf.

FRGMTmini Isn’t Just for Kids Anymore, Debuting Full-Family Pyjama Collection
Fashion

FRGMTmini Isn’t Just for Kids Anymore, Debuting Full-Family Pyjama Collection

Available today – just in time for the holidays.

When Icons Clash: A Retrospective of 2025’s Boldest Watch Collaborations
Watches

When Icons Clash: A Retrospective of 2025’s Boldest Watch Collaborations

From Hublot’s MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash to Ressence’s TYPE 3 MN with Marc Newson and more.

Drake's OVO Drops Nostalgic Heavyweight WWE Capsule
Fashion

Drake's OVO Drops Nostalgic Heavyweight WWE Capsule

The capsule pays homage to the icons who paved the way in the early ’90s, with a heavy focus on Canadian wrestling heritage.

BEAMS Gives Its Sneaker Loafer a Premium Suede Update
Footwear

BEAMS Gives Its Sneaker Loafer a Premium Suede Update

Available now for pre-order in two colorways: beige and black.

Tom Cruise and Alejandro González Iñárritu Unite for Catastrophic Comedy 'Digger'
Entertainment

Tom Cruise and Alejandro González Iñárritu Unite for Catastrophic Comedy 'Digger'

Watch the initial teaser title announcement here and lock in next fall for its premiere.

Dickies and TRIPSTER Reintroduce Wool-Blend Tweed for Their Eighth Suit Capsule
Fashion

Dickies and TRIPSTER Reintroduce Wool-Blend Tweed for Their Eighth Suit Capsule

Pairing refined insulation with the partnership’s signature boxy silhouette.

adidas Originals Goes Bold With the “Leopard Magic” Pack
Footwear

adidas Originals Goes Bold With the “Leopard Magic” Pack

Spotlighting the Samba, Handball Spezial and Japan silhouettes.

Official Look at the Nike Vomero Premium in “Black/Sapphire”
Footwear

Official Look at the Nike Vomero Premium in “Black/Sapphire”

Topped with vibrant “Hot Lava” accents.

Paul King to Helm Live-Action 'Labubu' Movie
Entertainment

Paul King to Helm Live-Action 'Labubu' Movie

The director behind ‘Wonka’ and ‘Paddington.’

NEEDLES Reimagines the Workwear Uniform in New FW25 Capsule
Fashion

NEEDLES Reimagines the Workwear Uniform in New FW25 Capsule

Exclusively at Nepenthes.

Takashi Murakami Brings His ‘JAPONISME' Exhibition to Tokyo
Art 

Takashi Murakami Brings His ‘JAPONISME' Exhibition to Tokyo

On view until January 29, 2026.

Equestrian Flair Defines the Air Jordan 1 Low MM V3 “Year of the Horse”
Footwear

Equestrian Flair Defines the Air Jordan 1 Low MM V3 “Year of the Horse”

Where brown leather, faux horse hair and ornate graphics highlight the design.

More ▾