HB20: Undercover’s Inimitable Intuition

In celebration of his limited edition apparel collaboration with Hypebeast for our 20th anniversary, Jun Takashi of Undercover talks about trusting his design instincts.

The HB20 capsule is officially live — visit the landing page to see the individual shirts in detail, as well as purchase your own while supplies last.

For our 20th anniversary, we’re honoring this legacy with a special curated exhibition. We’ve created a limited series of collaborative tees with longtime friends, creative partners, and some of streetwear’s most influential designers and leaders. Together, we want to reignite the energy of iconic graphics, logos, and messages from the past two decades — reimagined for today, and for what comes next.

In the following, we not only preview artwork from the upcoming anniversary exhibition, but also highlight the diverse perspectives of our collaborators whose insights help reveal the power of the T-shirt and give a glimpse into the past, present, and future of streetwear and creativity.

Undercover stands at the intersection of punk rebellion and high fashion. Founded by Jun Takahashi in 1990, the brand is known for its intricate detailing and deconstructed silhouettes. The Japanese label often blends disparate themes, such as elegant tailoring with raw, subversive graphics.

Takahashi’s work is a masterclass in duality, consistently exploring the tension between chaos and beauty, and has cemented Undercover as a highly influential force in contemporary fashion. His collections, often accompanied by complex narratives and cultural references, delve into themes of youth, rebellion and a beautiful sense of decay. Undercover’s unique aesthetic has made it a favorite among those who appreciate clothing that tells a story and challenges the status quo.

How long have you been designing, and how long have you been running your brand?

Jun Takahashi: It has been 35 years.

Our first post on Undercover was in April 2005, featuring the “Brain” sneakers. What’s your first memory of Hypebeast? What were your initial thoughts?

I believe it was also around 2005. I found it really interesting because it delved deeply into the context of street culture.

Undercover has been a mainstay on our platform over the years and remains popular with our audience. How have you managed to stay consistent and relevant?

I’m simply continuing to design based on my intuition.

How do you see your work — and your brand — still evolving in the years to come?

I want to keep evolving by staying true to my instincts.


“I’m simply continuing to design based on my intuition.” ~ Jun Takahashi (Undercover)

We’re releasing 20 T-shirt collaborations to celebrate 20 years of Hypebeast. Graphic tees have long been the backbone of streetwear—what do you think gives them that cultural significance? How has their role in fashion and style changed over time?

I think graphic T-shirts are a quick and accessible way for anyone to express themselves through fashion. Their role has always been, and still remains, significant.

What advice would you give to emerging brands hoping to make a similar impact?

Discover what only you can offer to the world.

What’s the number one lesson you’ve learned from running a brand for this long?

There are many, but things like “following your intuition” and “creating designs that only you can create” are definite lessons I’ve learned through experience.

Looking back over the years, is there a particular product, collection or moment that meant the most to you?

There have been many, and each of them has come at the right turning point.

Streetwear has evolved dramatically over the past two decades, where do you see it heading next?

It may appear to be evolution, but in reality, it’s just going in circles — I think.

Can you describe the design you created for this collaboration? What inspired it?

A hamburger sandwiched with the Hypebeast and UNDERCOVER logos. The original burger design is one of UNDERCOVER’s iconic graphics.

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