Balenciaga SS26: Piccioli's Debut Pays Homage to the House's Elders
Featuring 1950s archival references, dappled with subtle Demna signatures, and injected with Piccioli’s rich vision.
Summary
- Pierpaolo Piccioli debuted his first collection as Balenciaga’s creative director at Paris Fashion Week, blending the founder’s vision with elements from his predecessors.
- The SS26 collection features archival references, dappled with subtle Demna signatures, along with Piccioli’s recognizable use of fringe, feathers, floral details, and vibrant colors.
Pierpaolo Piccioli has presented Balenciaga‘s SS26 ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week, concluding months of speculation about what the Italian designer would bring to the more than 100-year-old label founded by Cristobal Balenciaga.
With Demna having debuted at Gucci, the industry’s gaze has been set on Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut collection as Balenciaga’s new creative director. The former Valentino director has been relatively quiet compared to his predecessor, who has relentlessly teased his helming of Gucci over the last year. Many expected Piccioli to revive the ethos of the founder, whose glamorous evening gowns interwoven modern ease with beautiful couture details.
Whether you miss Demna’s subversive vision or have had reservations about Piccioli’s future at the house, his debut collection appeared to honor the hallmarks of his predecessors, while re-emphasizing the DNA of the Spanish couturier. The presentation opened with a run of looks that at once evoked Cristobal’s modern vision of femininity and Demna’s streetwear slant. First, the designer pays homage to the 1957 Sack Dress, styling it with oversized black shades reminiscent of Demna’s villainous silhouettes. Various minimally draped gowns echo Balenciaga’s earlier work, while t-shirt silhouettes remind one of more street-leaning facets of the label.
Piccioli’s signatures come alive in dazzling fringe embellishments, feathers, and ruched floral appliques — details that he indulged in at Valentino. And of course, the designer brought his exuberant hues to his debut line. Deep violets, neon lime green, primary red, and sweet lilac fabrics make up textured skirts, flowy gowns, and oversized peacoats. However, all of this is grounded in a strong line of all-black looks and more casual numbers, styled with washed denim, platform flip-flops, and leather handbags like the ubiquitous City Bag.
The collection in no way glazes over the house’s storied past, nodding to its founding mastermind and his multi-generational disciples, Demna and Nicolas Ghesquière — yet, the designer managed to incorporate his affinity for ornamentation and utmost saturated color.
See the gallery above for a closer look at the Balenciaga SS26 collection and stay tuned to Hypebeast for the latest fashion industry insights.
