Zegna FW25 Is Standing on That Hill
Inside Allianz MiCo, the craft-led Italian luxury label closed out Milan Fashion Week on a grassy hillside akin to those in Australia, famous for producing the world’s premier wool.
Inside Allianz MiCo on Monday afternoon, Zegna transported Milan Fashion Week showgoers to a soft grassy hillside akin to those in Australia—home to the world’s best wool and the birthplace of founder Ermenegildo Zegna’s Wool Trophy Awards, established in 1963. At the annual ceremony, the finest fleece is woven into a special thread that’s then used to create the lightest and softest textiles. That thread is called “Vellus Aureum,” also the name of today’s honorary runway.
Models, including Severance actor John Turturro, meandered through the realistic set in the brand’s Fall 2025 collection, filled with deconstructed blazers, washed Oxford suits, cashfur-collared overcoats, spacious blousons with shileding collars, bulky cardigans and sharp v-neck shirts layered over myriad crewneck tops. Here, the Zegna man, in designer Alessandro Sartori’s mind, “has raided a wardrobe in which pieces have been collected over the decades, for their emotional and material value.” He’s not confined by age either: everyone from Gen-Zers to Boomers were well-represented on Zegna’s hills.
Like its natural moodboard, the collection’s color story was earthy, consisting of fossile, ginepro, dark foliage, serra, castoro and Gattinara red hues, among others. But despite the natural setting, the label’s gentlemen wore thick loafers on foot, as if taking a short cut through the clean-cut foliage on the way to their well-paying jobs.
As Milan’s final act, the collection referenced the northern Italian city of Turin, where there are, in fact, plenty of businessmen traversing to their offices. (The metropolis is home to much of Italy’s automotive industry, after all.) “There is something quintessentially ’Torinese’ to this collection, in the cultured attitude the shapes suggest and the insouciant manner they are worn, which is a particular way of being Italian,” Sartorial concluded.
See Zegna’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Milan Fashion Week coverage.
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