Setchu FW25 Fashions Origami and Manga
In Florence on Thursday evening, Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata made his runway debut as Pitti Uomo 107’s final guest designer.
Closing out Pitti Uomo 107 on Thursday evening, Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata made his runway debut inside Florence’s Biblioteca Nazionale, where an elegant string arrangement set the tone for the label’s studious Fall 2025 manifesto.
Like every season, Kuwata’s latest cuts were inspired by origami and developed through the dialogue between Eastern and Western style tropes, a sartorial collision that has always been central to the Setchu brand. But inside Italy’s largest library, the designer had a more specific starting point than usual: a square. “Folded in half, first vertically and then horizontally, it generates another four squares of different shades, divided by three folds in the mountain and one fold in the valley,” he explained. Naturally, each guest picked up a square piece of paper folded in that exact sequence at their seat.
In mode, Kuwata’s moldboard materialized as Saharan jackets and coats, which could be shortened to the wearers’ preference, and button-up shirts and blazers, which could extend with square side panels for dramatic effects. A gray and black tartan was this season’s central textile, forming the likes of dressy overcoats, conservative gowns and robes. A kimono-style polychrome silk jacquard reminded onlookers of Kuwata’s Kyoto upbringing; three origami-folded jackets were crafted in partnership with Davies & Sons (Savile Row’s oldest tailor!) and black lace eveningwear took after octopuses from erotic manga.
“Playful functionality and thoughtful temporality merge into a vision of inventive reduction,” as Kuwata put it.
See Setchu’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above.
