LUEDER's LFW Debut Unleashed Its Medieval Army

Exploring chemical reactions through natural pigmentation alongside French-British artist Thomas P. Grogan.

Fashion 
1.6K 0 Comments

Marie Lueder‘s eponymous label made its London Fashion Week debut on Saturday morning following its smoke-filled presentation in Berlin. After showing only two months prior, LUEDER has migrated onto larger grounds by returning to its home turf escorted by the British Fashion Council‘s NEWGEN cohort.

LUEDER’s Spring/Summer 2025 “ALBEDO” collection marked a significant milestone for the brand, promoting its signature theatrics while diving into medieval art forms based on light and radiation. As the second of four stages of Magnum Opus, the designer explored chemical reactions through natural pigmentation while partnering with French-British artist Thomas P. Grogan to experiment with alchemic reactions resulting in unique prints and patterns.

LUEDER’s LFW debut saw models walk clumsily down the runway, transitioning into abstract dance moves that marked commencement. The brand unleashed its medieval army for SS25, showcasing 30 diverse looks that cut, dismantled, and reconstructed fabrics from denim to leather while keeping eco-friendly practices at the forefront. The first look walked firmly down the runway with swirling denim panels primed for battle, followed by deconstructed pinstriped shirting and knotted side bags to take on your next adventure.

Fantasy figures were wounded by fire-breathing underpinnings, concealed by leather hoods, and paired with distressed sweatpants for a prehistoric look. Retracting fabrics coiled on abstract bomber jackets that bloomed at the neck, seeing LUEDER craft suits of armor with asymmetrical leather uniforms while implementing stained and gradient finishes. Finally, LUEDER introduced soft tailoring for the first time, presenting strong-shouldered silhouettes with calf-length skirts taken from the history books.

Take a closer look at LUEDER’s SS25 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned for more London Fashion Week content on Hypebeast.

Read Full Article

What to Read Next

HARRI Dances In Apocalyptic Latex for SS25
Fashion 

HARRI Dances In Apocalyptic Latex for SS25

Consisting of 30 looks, the designer’s fifth collection saw him evolve maturely while bringing whimsical erotica to London Fashion Week.

S.S.DALEY's Womenswear Debut "No Suffix, Prefix or Quote" Is Straight To the Point
Fashion 

S.S.DALEY's Womenswear Debut "No Suffix, Prefix or Quote" Is Straight To the Point

Attended by the likes of Harry Styles and Emma Corrin, the 24-look collection was drenched in archaic beauty.

AHLUWALIA Knocks on the Door of Its "Home Sweet Home" for SS25
Fashion 

AHLUWALIA Knocks on the Door of Its "Home Sweet Home" for SS25

The 31-look collection is drowned in floral crotchet, geometric patterns, and graphic silk uniforms.


Demon Zhang's MITHRIDATE Rules Its "Flower Kingdom" for SS25
Fashion 

Demon Zhang's MITHRIDATE Rules Its "Flower Kingdom" for SS25

Memorializing the designer’s birthplace in Southwest China with an unmatched runway packed with vibrancy and cultural flair.

Nike Debuts The Air Max 90 in a Fall-Ready “Coconut Milk/Vintage Green”
Footwear

Nike Debuts The Air Max 90 in a Fall-Ready “Coconut Milk/Vintage Green”

Dropping this October.

Kid Cudi's "Day 'N' Nite" Certified Diamond by RIAA
Music

Kid Cudi's "Day 'N' Nite" Certified Diamond by RIAA

‘Man on the Moon’ is also the first 2000s hip-hop album to earn multiple diamond singles.

First Look at the Air Jordan 12 “Barons”
Footwear

First Look at the Air Jordan 12 “Barons”

Paying homage to Mike’s Birmingham AAA days.

Take on the Elements in SATISFY's Off-Road Collection
Fashion

Take on the Elements in SATISFY's Off-Road Collection

Featuring Polartec, Pertex and Cordura-engineered garments that are built to withstand the harshest conditions.

Skepta Rings the Bell to MAINS University for SS25
Fashion 

Skepta Rings the Bell to MAINS University for SS25

The schoolboy-inspired collegiate collection was presented in London to UK a-listers Central Cee, Gabriel Moses, and more.


Tradition and Modernity Mix in Kyoto's Latest Teahouse
Design

Tradition and Modernity Mix in Kyoto's Latest Teahouse

The minimalist space is nestled in a boutique hotel designed by revered Japanese architect Tadao Ando.

First Look at the Nike Calm Slides in "Black Gum"
Footwear

First Look at the Nike Calm Slides in "Black Gum"

Releasing in fall 2024.

AARON ESH Proves He Is a British Powerhouse for SS25
Fashion 

AARON ESH Proves He Is a British Powerhouse for SS25

Referencing the likes of Maison Margiela and Alexander McQueen while paying tribute to his late mentor Katy England.

Good Mother Gallery Moves to West Adams
Art

Good Mother Gallery Moves to West Adams

To commemorate the new space, the LA-based gallery is presenting a new group show featuring the work of 40 artists, including Jacob Rochester, Julian Pace and Nancy Hollinghurst.

AHLUWALIA Knocks on the Door of Its "Home Sweet Home" for SS25
Fashion 

AHLUWALIA Knocks on the Door of Its "Home Sweet Home" for SS25

The 31-look collection is drowned in floral crotchet, geometric patterns, and graphic silk uniforms.

More ▾