Essentials: Jason Liu

The founder and head chef of Michelin-starred restaurant LING LONG goes into detail about his daily essentials as well as his culinary journey so far.

Fashion 
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Although what is ultimately presented to diners is the sensory experience that combines color, aroma and taste, but behind an excellent dish are the chef’s emotions and experiences that cannot be expressed in words. When all these seemingly ethereal things are applied to ingredients with familiar techniques and unconventional innovations, the cuisine can transcend the inherent concept of food – and Jason Liu, the chef behind 1 Michelin Star restaurant LING LONG, is a gourmet craftsman who is capable of doing just that.

Liu began his culinary journey at the age of 14 – when he first learned how to cook. He then worked at a Western restaurant before opening Bistro 3 in Beijing. Combining his early experiences with the knowledge he gained from a year-long journey exploring the roots of Chinese cuisine, Liu opened LING LONG – a fine dining restaurant with a “re-fine dining” approach to contemporary Chinese cuisine.

Focusing on freshness, tradition and local ingredients, LING LONG’s menu amalgamates elements from both Chinese and Western cuisines, creating distinct yet comforting dishes that respect traditions. All of these are part of the reasons behind the restaurant’s success as it garners recognition beyond its industry. In 2023, LING LONG Beijing was selected as one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. While the restaurant’s Shanghai outpost only made its debut this year, it has already been spotlighted in 2024’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Both restaurants acquired one Michelin star respectively in 2022 and 2024, with the chef himself winning the Beijing Michelin Young Chef Award.

Beyond the kitchen, Jason Liu is also active in the fashion industry. Not only has he walked the runway for Hermès’ SS24 Menswear show in Shanghai this year, the chef is also working with Nike on a new partnership. Jason Liu sat down with Hypebeast to share more about his journey as well as his daily essentials.

WŪSTHOF Kitchen Knife

I got this set of knives in Germany when I attended the first design meeting for LING LONG Beijing. I’ve been using it ever since so these knives have been with me for six years now. There are eight knives in this set, the handles are made of African ebony and the blades are all made of German steel.

Nike C1TY

To me, the Nike C1TY is an ideal shoe for an “urban athlete.” This pair comes in a “Yes Chef” limited-edition colorway that’s exclusive to LING LONG, which also happened to be in my favorite color.

Watch, Glasses & Pen

In 2022, when I won the “Young Chef Award,” LING LONG Beijing was also awarded a Michelin star. That year’s sponsor was Blancpain and since it was such an important year for me, it felt symbolic to own one of their timepieces, and so I spent all my money then on this Fifty Fathoms.

And I’m getting old, so I need to wear reading glasses now. Just kidding, these are just anti-blue-light spectacles I got during my visit to Taipei.

Lastly, this pen was gifted to me by Mr. Lu Yang, the world’s first Chinese Master Sommelier. It’s even engraved with my name, “劉禾森,”  in Chinese.

For those who aren’t familiar with you, could you briefly introduce your restaurant, LING LONG?

I’m Jason, the chef and owner of LING LONG. I started my career at the age of 14. After studying in a Western restaurant in Taipei, I then came to Beijing and began my exploration of Chinese cuisine. Over the past seven years, I have traveled around China, gained a deep understanding of local cuisines and learned from senior Chinese cuisine masters.

In 2019, LING LONG Beijing was established, and four years later, I opened LING LONG Shanghai. Both restaurants represent refinement, delicacy and transparency in Chinese cuisine — elements I hope to present in my menus.

More and more fusion restaurants have been appearing in mainland China. What are your thoughts on modern interpretations of traditional dishes?

We are both respectful and proud of our traditional dishes, whether it’s the techniques, history or stories. Contemporary interpretations follow the changes in flavors of ingredients, thus adapting them to suit modern palettes.

As the youngest Black Pearl chef and winner of several Michelin stars, do you feel pressured to be under the scrutinizing eyes of authorities? Does this affect the way you create?

There is definitely pressure, but despite sounding a bit cheesy, it’s what motivates me too. So this pressure doesn’t affect my creations, otherwise, I probably wouldn’t be able to continue after winning my first award.

Diversity is fully reflected in your culinary career. In the process of constantly striving for improvements and fresh iterations, what do you think are the most important values that Chinese chefs should always stick to?

The “diversity” that consumers feel is actually based on “tradition”. So for me, being respectful of traditions means sticking to the roots of Chinese cuisine and continuing to pass it on.

Can you share the research and development process of a particular dish?

When I went to the market in Yunnan, I had the chance to observe a beehive’s most primitive state. I then thought about how I could recreate this state on the dining table to express our awe of nature, so we incorporated the hummings of a beehive and used blooming flowers to elevate the experience. After trying a selection of honey, I opted for three different types and presented them distinctly to fully showcase their characteristics.

What kind of meals do you prepare for yourself and your family outside of work?

I always make blanched chicken for my family when I visit them in Taipei during the Lunar New Year. I only ever make blanched chicken for them really!

Besides your own, what other restaurants do you personally recommend?

Meet The Bund, 102 House, FU HE HUI, Yong Fu Xiao Xian (takeaway) and Scilla.

In the scope of Chinese cuisine, which region’s cuisine do you personally like the most? Are there any dishes that resonate with you strongly?

Before opening LING LONG, I was traveling around China. My favorite would be Chaoshan, but my most memorable dishes are not limited to that region: Chaoshan sashimi, Guangzhou’s radish puff and crispy tofu in Chengdu’s mala hotpots.

The dining world and fashion industry are becoming more closely connected. We heard you’ve been working with Nike, would you be able to disclose more details about the project?

I’m working with Nike for their “Yes, Chef!” campaign, specifically for their new C1TY model. Tailored “urban athletes,” the shoe also represents high energy and a hardworking spirit, which are qualities I’ve carried throughout my journey from Taipei, Beijing to Shanghai.

What’s your take on the “workhorse” spirit that the new C1TY series promotes?

I believe everyone has their struggling moments, what we have to do is to extend these moments infinitely and turn them into a source of mental power.

What kind of clothes do you gravitate towards when you’re off-duty? Do you have any go-to styles or brands?

COS and BOSS for sure. I only wear black, but will look out for pieces that cleverly incorporate Chinese elements in the designs.

Is talent the most decisive factor for determining a chef’s career? Or do you reckon it can be compensated through acquired efforts?

For me, a chef’s growth is determined by their hard work, followed by a strong vision and luck.

What message would you like to give to young and aspiring Chinese chefs?

I’m still a young chef too! First of all, I think a love for industry is important. Secondly, a solid foundation of basic skills will determine whether you can stand on the starting line of the industry. But, it’s hard to solely rely on one’s passion and faith, so a critical point for me personally is to have a sense of accomplishment. Identify your source of motivation and find ways to experience accomplishment even in your day-to-day work, these are the driving forces that will encourage you to keep going.

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