IWC Introduces a Significant Range of Portugieser Models at Watches & Wonders
Including a Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, relaunched with a durable new 18-carat “Armor Gold” case.
At this year’s Watches and Wonders in Geneva, IWC has unveiled a stunning collection of timepieces, each exemplifying the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and timeless elegance. The lineup includes the newly re-engineered Portugieser Automatic 42 and 40 models, known for their slimmer case profiles and elaborate dial finishes; the Portugieser Chronograph, now presented in captivating Horizon Blue, Obsidian and Dune dials; the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44, which features the use of 18-carat “Armor Gold” and a dial color selection that speaks to the sophistication of its wearers.
Additionally, the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night stands as a marvel of mechanical ingenuity with a globe-shaped day and night indicator; and the Portugieser Eternal Calendar represents a horological masterpiece that introduces a secular perpetual calendar mechanism with moon phase accuracy extending over 45 million years. Together, these releases showcase IWC’s mastery over traditional watchmaking techniques as well as its continued pursuit of horological excellence.
Portugieser Automatic
IWC has unveiled its latest innovations in the Portugieser watch collection, introducing the Portugieser Automatic 42 and Portugieser Automatic 40 models. These new timepieces are a testament to IWC’s commitment to craftsmanship and design, featuring slimmer case profiles for a more refined and elegant appearance. The use of double box-glass sapphire crystals enhances the visibility of the dials and the IWC-manufactured movements, highlighting the aesthetic appeal and technical elements of these watches. Notably, the dials come in new colors like Horizon Blue, Obsidian, and Dune, adding a contemporary twist to the timeless design of the Portugieser collection.
The Portugieser line, with its origins dating back to the late 1930s, remains a symbol of timeless design for IWC, blending traditional aesthetics with modern engineering. However, unlike the 1930s, these new models are equipped with the 52000 and 82000 caliber families, featuring Pellaton winding systems with ceramic components for improved durability and efficiency. The attention to detail extends to the dial manufacturing process, where 15 layers of lacquer are applied to create a depth and glossiness that enhance legibility and beauty. Additionally, the collection includes variations in 18-carat gold and stainless steel, with different dial colors and strap options, catering to diverse tastes and preferences.
Portugieser Chronograph
Three new versions of the Portugieser Chronograph have also been unveiled and like the automatic, they come in captivating dial colors like Horizon Blue, Obsidian and Dune, each chosen to represent the diverse atmospheres of day and night. The Horizon Blue model pairs an 18-carat white gold case with a blue calfskin strap, while the Obsidian version combines an 18-carat 5N gold case with a black alligator leather strap. Meanwhile, the Dune model contrasts its warm dial color with a stainless steel case and a black alligator leather strap. All three watches are powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355 caliber, a testament to the brand’s commitment to robust and reliable mechanical chronograph movements, designed with a classic column-wheel mechanism for precise timekeeping.
Since the Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante’s debut in 1995, the chronograph function has introduced a sporty elegance to the Portugieser collection. Known for its clean, functional design, the new models continue this tradition with features that enhance both functionality and aesthetics. The dials undergo a meticulous crafting process involving a sunburst finish, 15 layers of transparent lacquer and a final polishing to achieve a depth and glossiness that underscore its luxurious appeal. The design is further refined with rhodium-plated or gold-plated hands and appliques, creating a look that’s sophisticated and readable.
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
Additionally, IWC has re-launched the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44, introducing four distinct versions that blend traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation. Two of these versions are encased in 18-carat white gold, featuring the new Horizon Blue and Dune dials, while the other two are presented in 18-carat “Armor Gold” with Obsidian and silver-plated dials. This launch showcases the watchmaker’s dedication to aesthetic refinement as well as its engineering prowess, with each model powered by the sophisticated IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre. This calibre boasts a Pellaton winding system and an impressive 7-day power reserve. Like the dials featured in the other Portugieser models, those on the Perpetual Calendar 44 are finished with 15 layers of transparent lacquer and polished to a high gloss.
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar has long been a cornerstone of IWC’s portfolio, thanks to its intricate perpetual calendar complication first developed in the 1980s. This complication, which displays the date, day, month, and year in four digits, along with a perpetual moon phase for both the northern and southern hemispheres, is a testament to the watchmaker’s innovative spirit. The latest models feature a re-engineered case construction with a slimmer profile and double box-glass sapphire crystals, enhancing their lightness and elegance. Notably, “Armor Gold” models introduce a significantly harder and more wear-resistant material than traditional gold, underscoring IWC’s commitment to durability.
Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night
Another example featuring IWC’s “Armor Gold” is the new Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night. This masterpiece stands out with its 18-carat gold case, matched beautifully with an Obsidian lacquered dial, gold-plated hands and gold appliques, encapsulating the essence of luxury and precision. At its heart, the watch features the IWC-manufactured 81925 caliber, visible through the sapphire glass caseback, revealing gold-plated components and a skeletonized base plate that offers a glimpse into the intricate workings of the movement. The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, a hallmark of sophisticated watchmaking, is crafted from 56 parts and weighs just 0.675 grams.
What sets this timepiece apart is the day and night indication, a globe that completes a rotation every 24 hours, showcasing the eternal cycle of day and night in a visually appealing manner. This feature, visible from both the dial and movement sides, was inspired by Loris Spitzer and attests to the ingenuity that’s fostered within IWC’s trainee program. The Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night not only continues the Portugieser collection’s legacy of high complications and timeless design but also represents a seamless fusion of traditional watchmaking techniques with cutting-edge innovations, making it a standout addition to IWC’s portfolio.
Portugieser Eternal Calendar
Last but certainly not least, IWC has unveiled the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This timepiece transcends traditional watchmaking by incorporating the first secular perpetual calendar developed by IWC, capable of navigating the leap-year exception rules of the Gregorian calendar with unmatched precision. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar stands out not only for its technical ingenuity but also for its aesthetic appeal, featuring an intricately finished platinum case, a black alligator leather strap from Santoni and a remarkable level of transparency achieved through glass elements — this includes a glass dial and double box-glass sapphire crystals that create a sense of lightness and elegance.
The heart of this exceptional watch is the newly engineered “400-years gear,” a marvel of mechanical engineering that ensures the calendar will only need to adjust the leap year three times over four centuries, marking a significant advancement in calendar mechanics. However, the true masterpiece of precision is its moon phase display, which boasts an accuracy that deviates by only one day after 45 million years, thanks to a newly developed reduction gear. This technological feat is housed within the IWC-manufactured 52640 caliber, which also features a highly efficient Pellaton winding system with a seven-day power reserve. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar serves as proof of IWC’s continued legacy of innovation with a design that’s as ingeniously efficient as it is elegant.
