What To Expect at New York Fashion Week FW24

Where September represents a livelier and party-filled New York Fashion Week, February returns to the basics with clothes at the core – breaking some of winter’s frost with their captivating designs. In New York City specifically, the season represents a time of heightened focus for brands to curate cohesive collections and refine their design expertise.

With this year’s calendar, a roster of designers is taking to the catwalk for their Fall/Winter 2024 collections. From names like Helmut Lang to Michael Kors and Thom Browne, there’s a range of moments to be on the lookout for featuring highlight returns, seasoned New York Fashion Week names and even a few newcomers – taking place from Friday, February 9 through Wednesday, February 14.

Highlight Returns

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Last September’s NYFW, Peter Do held his first runway show as Helmut Lang’s new creative director in an attempt to return the brand to its former glory. With his signature tailored sentiments, Do brought a clean edge to the NYC-based label while maintaining its minimal stylings. Since then, Do offered up a clean collection for the Pre-Fall 2024 season, but now the designer is returning to the runway for his second show at Helmut Lang. Peter Do’s second show at Helmut Lang is set to kick off NYFW on Friday, February 9 at noon.

Edvin Thompson’s Theophilio is also back on the runway roster, marking its first show since September 2022. Culture remains at the forefront of the Jamaican-born designer’s process and each collection has seen him dive deeper into his roots. Tommy Hilfiger returns to the calendar as well, having not shown during NYFW since September 2022. If the past show was any indication – making a grand spectacle at Brookly’s Skyline Drive In – Hilfiger’s next on the runway will surely be a spectacle. Amongst all of the returns, CFDA Chairman and celebrated fashion designer Thom Browne is sure to be a core highlight of NYFW (as he always is).

NYFW last saw Browne’s eponymous label in February of 2023, so the FW24 return just makes sense. Thom Browne is set to close this year’s NYFW on Wednesday, February at 5 pm.

Seasoned Names

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Leaning on contemporary style notes, Private Policy and Eckhaus Latta are back on the roster alongside the quintessential American brand, Coach.

For the bold and sexy, LaQuan Smith has remained a NYFW mainstay in recent years with his affinity for the contemporary. Lately, the designer has been slowly introducing menswear into the mix, so his next show will be met with both intrigue and of course, glamour.

Other highlight designers on the calendar are Willy Chavarria’s eponymous label and Raul Lopez’s Luar. Chavarria, who is Mexican-American, has fused his love for Chicano style and his cultural heritage into artful creations across tailoring, expanded workwear and more. For Lopez, who is Dominican-American, the exaltation of life experiences has led his brand to rest in the intersection of culture and glamour – continuously crafting garments that stomp with power. Both of Latin heritage, the two designers are helping reshape the design language of American luxury.

Newcomers

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In addition to veterans, each fashion week season also sees breakout figures emerge onto the catwalk. One of the anticipated names is Pacific-Northwestern designer Jane Wade. A former corporate employee, Wade’s label gets its personality from analyzing officewear, workwear and utilitarian styles.

Beyond Wade, Ludovic de Saint Sernin is gearing up to be another highlight NYFW moment. Although Ludovic is not a Fashion Week newcomer, he is a newcomer to NYFW as the French designer typically shows during Paris Fashion Week. Aside from his eponymous label, the designer previously served as the creative director of Ann Demeulemeester. Ludovic’s NYFW debut continues the line of European labels that have taken to the Big Apple in recent years to expand their reach.

“Now feels like the right time for me to finally tend to my community [in New York] and give them my best work,” Ludovic told Vogue Runway. “I feel like it will be my most important collection since my first.”

Check out the complete New York Fashion Week calendar on the CFDA’s website, and stay tuned for Hypebeast’s coverage.