Sabato De Sarno's Debut Gucci Men's Collection Winks With Sophistication

The Fall/Winter 2024 line expands on the creative director’s “Ancora” manifesto, proposing menswear that’s both sharply cut and irreverently glamorous.

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Sabato De Sarno debuted his succinct and alluring vision for Gucci’s menswear during Milan Fashion Week Men’s on Friday afternoon, and with it came a lucid understanding of the creative director’s “Ancora” manifesto, which has defined his entire body of work at the legacy fashion house thus far. In Italian, the word ancora means “again;” in De Sarno’s Gucci universe, it means “a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy.” His debut menswear line tells this sartorial tale through sophistication and glamour, offering expressions of the classic man’s wardrobe that appeal to worldly patrons.

The show took place at Milan’s Fonderia Carlo Macchi, a factory fit with colossal metal beams and smooth cement floors. Emerging under a stark light, the beginning looks comprised neutral suits, mirroring those that appeared in De Sarno’s debut women’s collection in September, but these were built with broader structures for the male form. Leather gloves and bags adopted the designer’s “it” color, Gucci Rosso, which has assumed the starring role in Gucci’s public image ever since its prominent placement in his Spring 2024 collection.

The tone, pulled from Gucci’s archives, dispensed a flavorful finish on shiny leather jackets, fine jacquard workwear shirts, slick sweaters and leather goods — be them crossbody bags, duffles, cylindrical cases or backpacks. It was evident that the Rosso hue was pinned at the top of De Sarno’s mood board.

Poise, too, was clearly a priority. The designer’s formal shapes were smartly tailored, with well-executed corners and edges that made each trench coat, blazer and zipped jacket appear untouchable. Trousers were most often straight and pleated, adhering to business dress codes; however, there were a few denim iterations that could pass for streetwear, if styled correctly.

De Sarno is strategic in his approach to design, considering his sales projections just as much as his creative liberty. Where the former silhouettes may end up earning the biggest bucks among Gucci’s loyal clients, there’s a portion of the collection that builds on the designer’s exploratory agenda with a classy sparkle. These silhouettes include overcoats with crystal studs and feathered finishes, as well as a half-button sweater with a glossy hood and a glittering tank top. While they might only appeal to the bolder fashionphiles, their fantastical details articulate de Sarno’s “completely free and filled with euphoria” manifesto. It’s Gucci Ancora.

The concluding looks riffed on the traditional black-and-white tuxedo, with a bevy of asymmetrical ties, double-breasted blazers with crisp lapels and dark pants. Last in line, Look 56 included a dramatic, cape-like coat, layered over a deep-seated tank top and a tie that was casually tied around the neck. Sabato himself entered the arena to take a bow amidst applause, and guests were on their way.

Exiting the venue, Hypebeast bumped into front-row regular Wisdom Kaye, who dished his immediate thoughts on the debut: “I could see myself wearing a lot of the pieces in the collection, and I could see this stuff selling like crazy,” he said. We’ll see if Kaye’s predictions are correct come next fall, when de Sarno’s debut men’s line hits shelves.

See Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery above.

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