Emporio Armani FW24 Sets Sail With Gentlemanly Design
Shown against an inky lighthouse, the Italian designer’s sharp collection had a maritime mentality.
On Saturday evening during Milan Fashion Week, Emporio Armani’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection emerged in the foreground of a fictitious, dark lighthouse. To the notes of Loredana Berte’s “Il Mare D’inverno (Winter Sea),” the illustrious menswear designer’s freshly-minted silhouettes met the world while cascading down a slate-gray runway inspired by a seascape. The nautical aura galvanized much of the line, reflecting Mr. Armani’s “love for the sea” through sharp formalwear, expert tailoring and a neutral color story.
The beginning ensembles begged to be at sea: navy sailor hats paired well with buttoned overcoats and zip-up jackets that employed silk cut-outs on their shoulders. Black leather gloves and bulky boots, too, worked in tandem with striped sweaters and scarves, while navy and off-white wool outerwear could safely fend off the ocean’s chill.
The palette shifted to browns and beiges, allowing Armani’s virtuoso tailoring to bask in all the attention. In this section, blazers and trenches became the coats of choice; they were often paired with billowing trousers that cinched at models’ ankles. Base layers included shirts with minimal, asymmetrical buttons and monotone turtlenecks, while footwear saw brown leather boots climb to the knee.
Skiwear came next, with models momentarily ditching leather accessories for skis, snowboards, helmuts and goggles. Down parkas, puffers and puffer vests gleamed in snow white, while knitwear, in an identical tone, formed dresses, sweaters, and skirts. On the runway, Mr. Armani is known for his slopes-ready interludes.
He then reminded onlookers of his maritime mood board, embellishing grey formal coats with sparkling iterations of shells and barnacles. In their footsteps, shimmering navy jackets, vests and tops found prominence over black trousers, with ties wrapped loosely around bare necks. The designer then unshackled a legion of crystal-covered eveningwear, planting a tasteful feminine edge on traditional men’s suiting separates.
In closing, Armani emerged to bow from his lighthouse, watching the tides of his label soar high.
See Emporio Armani’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Milan Fashion Week Men’s coverage.
